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L'Ora del Garda

First ascent: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 10 and 16/11/2013, 17/05/2014, 6/01/2015, 5/03/2015 (except for pitch 1 established by Giampaolo Calzà). FFA: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 24/03/2015
By: Planetmountain
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Mandrea Arco, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Demanding and sustained climb.

"All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing amount of stamina for final redpoint that sealed our efforts."

ACCESS

The route starts to the right of Maurizio Giordani’s masterpiece Fiore di Corall.

ROUTE

P1: 7a+
P2: 7a+
P3: 8a
P4: 7c+
P5: 7b
P6: 8a
P7: 7b+
P8: 7c+/8a
P9: 6c
P10: 5a

DESCENT

Take care if making the descent by abseil; this is complex due to the overhanging nature of the climb and the fact that some pitches ascend diagonally

GEAR

12 quickdraws, 2 totem blue + 2 yellow + 1 red + 2BD

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b+

LENGTH

355m

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