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Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi

First ascent: Peter Moser, Carlo Zottele (summer - autumn 2014)
By: Peter Moser
Area: Valsugana, Group: Canale del Brenta, Peak: Parete di Palu, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi ascends the most beautiful and compact slabs of the face above the village of Palu.

The route is equipped with bolts but definitely has a very alpine feel to it due to the morphology of the rock and the at times sparse protection that requires a cool head.

GETTING THERE

Reach Palù in Valsugana (TN). Park in the layby close to the small plant nursery.

ACCESS

The face is clearly visible from the car. Follow the poor track to reach the base and cairns. Scramble 30m up past the trees and rocks to reach the base of the route (plaque and name).

ROUTE

P1: 6a, 25m
P2: 7a, 25m
P3: 7a, 25m
P4: 6c, 50m
P5: 6c+/7a, 25m
P6: 7b, 25m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route, clipping the bolts as you descend.

GEAR

10 quickdraws, two 60m half ropes.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7b

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

LENGTH

200m

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Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi

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