Evergreen - Lastoni di Formin
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Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
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Evergreen: Lastoni di Formin south face
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Bruno Sartorelli, Danilo Serafini 10/2013
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Length
170m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Bolted climb put up by Bruno Sartorelli and Danilo Serafini up the second bastion of Mondeval, the beautiful pillar that together with the others forms the sunny south Face of Lastoni di Formin.
Getting there
Passo Giau (2233 m) is reached easily from Cortina d’Ampezzo, ideal for those coming from the south and the A27 motorway. Otherwise, reach the pass from the other side via Caprile and the Agordino valley. Access
10 quickdraws, full alpine rack Notes
Croda da Lago and Fastoni di Formin are particularly prone to thunderstorms and lightening strikes. In unstable weather conditions I recommend you choose not to climb this route.
Passo Giau (2233 m) is reached easily from Cortina d’Ampezzo, ideal for those coming from the south and the A27 motorway. Otherwise, reach the pass from the other side via Caprile and the Agordino valley. Access
Park circa 200 before reaching Passo Giau (coming from Cortina) in the obvious lay-by on the left. Follow path # 436 that leads to Forcella Giau (45 minutes).
From the col continue to the base of the face and traverse below it. Continue past the start of Re Artù and I love my dogs and follow the tracks to beneath the second bastion.
The start of the route (bolt visible) is located at the base of a long black streak (15 minutes from Forcella Giau).
ItineraryP1: 6b+ 30m 5 bolts
P2: 6a 30m 5 bolts (one 6c+ section)
P3: 6b+ 30m 6 bolts
P4: 7a+/7b 35m 9 bolts
P5: 6c+ 35m 7 bolts
P6: III 15m
DescentThree options
1 – walk along the path NW to reach the obvious notch on the right (5 minutes). The first of three anchors is located at the start of the gully; continue down via three abseils and a short scramble to return to the base of the route. This is the descent used by those who have climbed the routes put up by Mario Dibona on Monte Formin. One 55m rope suffices for the abseil. In case of rain or other parties watch out for loose rock.
2 – alternatively descend on foot; reach the Forcella Rossa del Formin path then continue down (first # 435 then # 436) to return to Forcella Giau and Passo Giau (2 hours circa).
3 – last option, abseil down the route. A 70m rope is needed. This is best avoided though if there are other climbers on the route.
Gear10 quickdraws, full alpine rack Notes
Croda da Lago and Fastoni di Formin are particularly prone to thunderstorms and lightening strikes. In unstable weather conditions I recommend you choose not to climb this route.
Comments
20/10/2014 francesco gherlenda
Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo congelati, per cui non entro nel merito delle valutazioni che sono, forse, un po' generose. Fare attenzione perchè la chiodatura spesso non concede distrazioni e ha qualche spit un po' fuori linea. Sul tiro difficile allungare le protezioni alla base del diedro e sotto al tettino per ridurre l'attrito. Se siete disturbati dalla folla su Re Artù fate un salto fin qui! Discesa in doppia tranquilla e via nel complesso meritevole!
Beauty
First ascent
Bruno Sartorelli, Danilo Serafini 10/2013
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Length
170m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
