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Escalador Selvatico

First ascent: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, Maurizio Oviglia, end of Jan, start of Feb 2014, in 7 days, 2 bivies. FFA: Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, 8/2/2014
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Venezuela, Group: Akopan Tepui, Peak: Akopan Tepui, Country: Venezuela, Region: Bolivàr

Fantastic climbing in a unique environment, very continuous all the way to the summit. The route requires great stamina if climbed in a single day. The crux pitch is located almost right at the end of the route. Excellent bivy ledge half-way up pitch 12. Excellent rock, cleaned by the first ascentionists along the entire route, including the "jungle", except for the final metres which need to be breached "Tarzan" style.

GETTING THERE

Reach Yunek. From Yunek 3.5 hours on foot through the savana and jungle. From ABC 1.5 hours.

DESCENT

The face overhangs at least 50m, the abseils are complicated (follow the topo instructions), Friends need to be clipped during the descent to remain close to the face. The final two abseils lead away from the route.

GEAR

36 bolts along the pitches + belays. Take 2 sets of Totem cams or BD to # 2BD, triple sets of small sizes. Microfriends and small nuts useful, slings

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7c+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a+

FACE

North

LENGTH

630m

LINK ZONE

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