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Dall'alba al tramonto

First ascent: Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 10/08/2013
By: Stefano Codazzi
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Presolana, Peak: Presolana Centrale, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Demanding route that requires experience in placing natural pro. During the first repeat four bolts were added to protect the exposed sections.

ACCESS

Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:30 from the pass. The route starts circa 10m to the right of Alien. Name and thread at base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 5c, 40m
P2: 5c, 45m
P3: 6b+, 45m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 6c, 40m
P6: 6b, 40m

GEAR

13 8mm stainless steel bolts placed on route, plus the belays with abseil ring (except for 4th belay). Take 2 x 60m ropes, 8 quickdraws, a full set of Alien camming devices (or similar) + #2 and 3 BD, kevlar and carabiners forthe threads. Medium tricram may be found useful.

NOTES

Established groun-up on 10 August.
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

SE

LENGTH

230m

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Dall'alba al tramonto

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LINK

www.climbingtechnology.com

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