Via del Guerriero - Gola del Limarò
Copia link
Francesco Salvaterra
1 / 11
Via del Guerriero
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Nicola Binelli, Francesco Salvaterra, 06/2013
By
Francesco Salvaterra
Length
280m
Difficulty
VI+/VIII-/A2 R3
Route
The rock face is hidden and located in an incredibly beautiful and wild part of the canyon called Gola del Limarò. We spent three days making the first ascent, using fixed ropes and topping out on the pillar close to the village Ranzo.
The first section of the route follows a series of weathered slabs while the second continues up a series of cracks that take trad pro. On the whole the rock is sound and compact, but there are some short grassy or loose sections. During the first ascent we breached difficulties up to VI+/A2 and this was all freed at a later stage, except for a 5m section on pitch 2. All pegs have been left in-situ; while the pro is good, it nevertheless needs backing up with trad gear.
The first section of the route follows a series of weathered slabs while the second continues up a series of cracks that take trad pro. On the whole the rock is sound and compact, but there are some short grassy or loose sections. During the first ascent we breached difficulties up to VI+/A2 and this was all freed at a later stage, except for a 5m section on pitch 2. All pegs have been left in-situ; while the pro is good, it nevertheless needs backing up with trad gear.
Notes
Nicola and I decided to dedicate this new route to our instructor Mauro Giovannazzi, who died tragically not long ago. Mauro always told his students that you must believe in your dreams and always fight for them, that you need to be a "Guerriero", a true warrior.
Nicola and I decided to dedicate this new route to our instructor Mauro Giovannazzi, who died tragically not long ago. Mauro always told his students that you must believe in your dreams and always fight for them, that you need to be a "Guerriero", a true warrior.
See all photos
Comments
18/05/2014 Gianni Canale
Circa 2 mesi fa avevo provato il secondo tiro della via per provare a liberarlo ... 2 tentativi e i passaggi sono riusciti!!! Oggi in compagnia del forte Fabio Salvadei "Biot" sono riuscito a liberare al secondo giro il fantastico secondo tiro che poi anche Biot ha fatto al secondo. Il grado proposto è 7b ... il tiro è una favola ... tornerò sicuramente per provare tutta la via completa perchè le prime due lunghezze sono veramente stupende e merita di essere fatta...Bravi Francesco e Nicola. Ciao Gianni
Beauty
First ascent
Nicola Binelli, Francesco Salvaterra, 06/2013
By
Francesco Salvaterra
Length
280m
Difficulty
VI+/VIII-/A2 R3
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
17/07/2013 - Climbing
Via del Guerriero, new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò, Arco In June Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Binelli made the first ascent of Via del Guerriero (VI+/VIII-/A2 R3), a new route in the Gola del Limarò close to Arco, Trentino -...