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L'Uovo di Colombo

First ascent: Rolando Larcher, Herman Zanetti il 13/06/2013. FFA: 17/06/2013, with the addition of the soft version
By: Rolando Larcher
Area: Val Adige, Group: Brentino, Peak: Monte Brento, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

In mid-June Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the first ascent of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7a+ and soft 7a+.

ROUTE

The first two pitches share Istantes, marked at the base with #6, the first route to the left of the large corner

L1: 5b, 55m, 10 bolts
L2: 6a 55m, 12 bolts
L3: 7a+, 30m, 5 bolts
L4: 7a, 3 bolts

SOFT

L5: 6c, 25m, 2 bolts
L6: 4c, 10m

HARD

L5: 7c+, 25m, 5 bolts

DESCENT

From the hard version an abseil is possible, by fixing the rope from belay 3 to belay 4. Attention!
The abseil off the 3rd belay is unforgettable, down into the absolute void.
From the soft version no abseil descent is possible. Either follow the track right, or abseil rightwards to reach the top of the routes (Desiderio Soferto, Otto Bastano, Il Ladro di Baghdad) which ascend lines to the right of the roof.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7c+ max, 7a+ soft

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c+

LENGTH

200m

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L'Uovo di Colombo

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