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Argento Argentario

First ascent: Eraldo Meraldi, 04/06/2013. First ascent: Adrio Giusti, Benefico Tacconi and Eraldo Meraldi on 10/06/2013
By: Eraldo Meraldi, Mountain Guide
Area: Apennines, Group: Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, Height: 350m, Country: Italy, Region: Tuscany

The route Argento Argentario is a small pearl that has stemmed from the sea. It's a pleasant outing: pitch 3 offers a crazy amount of holds strewn here and there that come in the most amazing shapes and sizes. As you ascend upwards you make your way past beautiful flowering Helichrysum italicum which smells of licorice. It's a sweet unexpected gift that enters the heart... etches memories... is one of life's little joys.

ACCESS

Reach the island of Argentario in Tuscany and drive to Porto Santo Stefano. At the first roundabout at the port turn left and drive up Vallone del Campone for circa 3,5 km. At the fork turn off left and park immediately after having driven over the hill, with view onto the sea. Walk down the dirt road for circa 200m, take the road right to reach the large curve which ascends upwards. Close to the tower (15 minutes) descend left to the crag and the lowest routes. From here follow cairn markers, first leftwards, below the lowest routes, then scramble up a short scree slop to an obvious cairn and the starting slab. 30 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 5c, 35m
P2: 5a, 35m
P3: 6a, 40m

At the end of the route it is possible to continue up the last 2 pitches of Spigolo “Bonatti” .

GEAR

32 10 mm stainless steel bolts + 6 at the belays. Gear: normal climbing equipment,, 15 quickdraws, helmet.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

5c

FACE

SE

LENGTH

110m

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Argento Argentario

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