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Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
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La Calanque
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
R. Reynaud e R. Roulet, 1948
By
Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NE
Length
140m
Difficulty
5c
Route
An extraordinary route. From the third pitch you can marvel at the fish in the sea a hundred metres. La Calanque was first climbed in 1948 by R. Reynaud and R. Roulet and although protected by bolts, a set of camming devices may prove useful. Start in a corner about half way along the Passerelle ledge.
Getting there
Drive or fly to Marseille. From Marseille take the D559 east towards Cassis. Access
From Cassis reach the Port Miou car park, park here and continue on foot along the dirt road down to the Port Pin Calanque. Take the green path that leads to Plateau della Gardiole and continue on to En Vau in circa 1 hour. Once at the beach traverse along the righthand side, close to the water's edge, for circa 40m and then scramble up the path past some rocky outcrops to reach the Passarelle ledge. Continue along this, it soon becomes exposed (go roped up) and after an equipped section with some bolts continue for another 50 to reach the corner and the start of the route. Itinerary
P1: 5a, 30m, very polished
P2: 3a, 20m, traverse left
P3: 4c, 30m
P4: 5a, 30m
P5: 5c, 30m
Drive or fly to Marseille. From Marseille take the D559 east towards Cassis. Access
From Cassis reach the Port Miou car park, park here and continue on foot along the dirt road down to the Port Pin Calanque. Take the green path that leads to Plateau della Gardiole and continue on to En Vau in circa 1 hour. Once at the beach traverse along the righthand side, close to the water's edge, for circa 40m and then scramble up the path past some rocky outcrops to reach the Passarelle ledge. Continue along this, it soon becomes exposed (go roped up) and after an equipped section with some bolts continue for another 50 to reach the corner and the start of the route. Itinerary
P1: 5a, 30m, very polished
P2: 3a, 20m, traverse left
P3: 4c, 30m
P4: 5a, 30m
P5: 5c, 30m
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Beauty
First ascent
R. Reynaud e R. Roulet, 1948
By
Gianni Lanza, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NE
Length
140m
Difficulty
5c
Route
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