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Luce di Primo Mattino

First ascent: A. Andreotti, B. Menestrina and M. Furlani, 1991. FFA: Rolando Larcher 18/04/2013
By: Planetmountain
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Piccolo Dain, Height: 967m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

According to Rolando Larcher, despite some vegetation low down Luce di Primo Mattino "offers surprisingly good quality rock from start to finish."

GETTING THERE

From Trento or Arco drive to the town Sarche located at the foot of Mt. Dain.

ACCESS

Reach the start of the route from Sarche in circa 30 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 6c, 45m
P2: 6b+, 35m
P3: 7b, 25m
P4: 6b, 60m
P5: III, 15m
P6: 6b+, 25m
P7: 6a, 25m
P8: 7a, 30m
P9: 6a, 25m
P10: 7a+, 25m
P11: 7c, 15m
P12: 6a, 45m
P13: 8a, 25m
P14: 6a, 40m

DESCENT

From the top of the route scramble up into the wood, then follow the steep path into the Limarò gulley and join up with the path which leads from Ranzo to Sarche, 1 hour.

GEAR

Larcher used 18 quickdraws during the first free ascent, a number of friends and a few wires as well as small-medium Totemcams.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

A0+

FACE

South

LENGTH

435m

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Luce di Primo Mattino

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