Saga di Valle Bavona
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
The Gendarm de Gramüsèd is situated approximately 3 km west of Bignasco. Enter the Valle Bavone from Bignasco and drive till you see the wall clearly on the left. There is only one brige you can pass the river with the car. (Water-power-plant). There you can park.
From the bridge follow a steep dry riverbed (from melting water) straight uphill until it gets to steep (15-20 minutes). Then go 50m rigth uphill along a wall till you see some fix ropes traversing along some ledges. After the ropes walk sidewards (North-West) till you reach the base of the wall. (30 minutes from the car)
P1: 6a+, 35m
P2: 6b, 18m
P3: 6c+, 35m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 7b, 32m
P6: 7c+/8a, 35m
P7: 6b, 30m
Rappel the route. In pitch 5 and pitch 6 some bolts have to be clipped to reach the belay.
12 draws, Metolius Mastercams 0-6 , Camelot C4 #2 for the end of pitch 3 (optional another #2 Camelot for the same pitch). Minimum 2 x 50 m ropes or one (70 m rope is just long enough)
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