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La beffa

First ascent: Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini, 09/2012
By: Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Croda da Lago, Peak: Cima Cason di Formin, Height: 2376m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off his route. The most demanding pitches climb yellow, good quality rock. All belays are equipped with two bolts and an abseil ring. The grades are indicative and need confirming.

GETTING THERE

From Cortina d’Ampezzo head towards Passo Falzarego to Pocol, shortly after this bear left up the #638 towards Passo Giau. From the Pocol fork continue for 4 km to layby, park here and continue on foot leftwards (south) along the popular path which leads to Rifugio Palmieri at Croda da Lago.

ACCESS

Follow path #437 towards Rifugio Palmieri. At the Cason de Formin fork (1848m) bear right along path #435 towards Forcella Formin. Where the path steepens, at a rightwards hairpin bend, exit left along the obvious horizontal track. Ascend this towards Cason de Formin and then continue along its base leftwards up scree. The route starts a circa 10m to the left of  “via Cecilia”, at the base of a yellow-black corner. Bolt clearly visible above.

ROUTE

P1: 6a+
P2: V+
P3: V
P4: 6c/6c+
P5: 7a
P6: 6c
P7: 7a
P8: 7a+/7b

DESCENT

Walk east along the ledge and descend left towards the large scree gully which leads quickly back to the base of the route (circa30 minutes).

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COMMENTS for the route "La beffa"

18-07-2014, Luciano Calvelo
Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. La difficoltà dei tiri: P1: 6a ; P2: 5; P3: 6a; P4: 6c ; P5: 7a; P6: 6b; P7: 6c; P8: 7b. Il ultimo tiro e molto atletico e sostenuto con movimenti lunghi. La qualità della roccia non e buonissima. La via e ancora abbastanza sporca.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a+/7b

FACE

NE

LINK

www.guidedolomiti.com

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