Alien

ZOOM ++

Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by2 Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties up to 7a+ (6c obligatory). Bolts are few and far between and the insitu gear needs integrating with Alien camming devices which slot neatly in to the numerous pockets. Twin-bolt belays, abseil down the route.

ACCESS

Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:45 from the car park.

ROUTE

P1: 5c, 45m
P2: 7a+, 40m
P3: 6b+, 25m
P4: 7a+, 40m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route or down the nearby Yook Yook.

GEAR

14 x 10mm bolts, all belays twin-bolts. For a repeat: 2 x 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, kevlar threads, set of Alien + #2 & 3 BD (or set of  BD to 3+ set of nuts)

NOTES

Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.

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