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A Tafunata Galattica

First ascent: First ascent and redpoint: Luca Giupponi & Nicola Sartori, 1/2/3 May 2012. Direct variation finish established by Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia on 03/05/2012
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Contrafforti di Punta A Muvra, Height: 1.212m, Country: France, Region: Corsica

Beautiful climbing which varied from slabs to steep overhangs. The fifth pitch presents and beautiful boulder section up a tafoni but this can be avoided by climbing 2 metres to the right, away from the line of bolts. The route exit on the left, where it joins  "Bleau comme l'enfer" contains a 7B boulder crux, a compression up the vertical face. The exit on the right is spectacular.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route (2 x 60m ropes).

GEAR

Bolts have only been placed in sections which are otherwise unprotectable. A set of camming devices is necessary up to #3, slings and kevlar threads, two 60m ropes.

NOTES

Thanks to Petzl, La Sportiva, Marmot, Mammut, Montura, E9, Ferrino, Totem Cams
Nicola Sartori is a member of Guide XM

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7b+ max 1 section FB7B/RS2/I

LENGTH

185m

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