A Tafunata Galattica
Beautiful climbing which varied from slabs to steep overhangs. The fifth pitch presents and beautiful boulder section up a tafoni but this can be avoided by climbing 2 metres to the right, away from the line of bolts. The route exit on the left, where it joins "Bleau comme l'enfer" contains a 7B boulder crux, a compression up the vertical face. The exit on the right is spectacular.
Abseil down the route (2 x 60m ropes).
Bolts have only been placed in sections which are otherwise unprotectable. A set of camming devices is necessary up to #3, slings and kevlar threads, two 60m ropes.
Thanks to Petzl, La Sportiva, Marmot, Mammut, Montura, E9, Ferrino, Totem Cams
Nicola Sartori is a member of Guide XM
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