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Momento Libero

First ascent: Alessio Roverato & friends, 2009 & 2011
By: Alessio Roverato
Area: Valsugana, Group: Canale del Brenta, Peak: Sasso Rosso, Height: 1196m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

The route climbs straight through the yellow section, clearly visible from San Gaetano di Valstagna (Valbrenta). Momento Libero is pleasant routerecommended to those who want to climb off the beaten track. The route offers both technnicaly slabs and steep overhangs and is exposed throughout.

GETTING THERE

From Valsugana reach the village San Gaetano di Valstagna.

ACCESS

From San Gaetano walk up the steps past the houses and beneath an arch. Follow the steep stone path past the characteristic stone terraces to reach the first house. From here follow the trail for a few minutes to reach a second house. Follow the path Altavia tobacco for about 100 meters north to reach a track that branches off left. Follow this up Val Bastion to beneath a yellow tower, at this point leave the path and ascend the gully that lies to the left left of the tower. Follow the gully directly up to the start of the route. 1.30 hours

ROUTE

P1: 40m, 6b
P2: 40m, 7c
P3: 30m, 7b
P4: 30m, 7b
P5: 30m, 7a
P6: 30m, 8a
P7: 30m, 6b/c
P8: 50m, 7a
P9: 50m, 6b

DESCENT

1) from the top of the route scramble through the forest from 50m to reach a rocky outcrop. Coast this for circa 300m with it on your left (north). Reach a cairn and then head left, follow the path used by deer, upwards to reach an old track with some yellow makers (follow the broken branches where the path is not obvious). This leads to a road which leads steeply to the summit of Sasso Rosso. From here follow path 781 back down to valley in circa 2, 2.5 hours.

2) descend by car after having parked it close to the Sasso Rosso summit previously. The summit is reached by following the markers, in circa 1 hour.

GEAR

10 quickdraws, 2 x 60m ropes.

NOTES

An abseil descent is not recommended due to the steep overhangs. After pitch 6 a retreat is very difficult indeed.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a/b

FACE

South east

LENGTH

330m

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