La steLLa e la luna

ZOOM ++

Pleasant route up excellent quality slabs and cracks, with some technical sections in wild surroundings.

GETTING THERE

From Palermo continue to Villabate, then Misilmeri and Marineo and reach Ficuzza.

ACCESS

From Ficuzza continue by car towards Alpe Cucco. Turn off right shortly afterwards following the sign for Alpe Ramosa and continue up the hairpin bends. park the car when these end, at the wooden signpost for Acqua Ammucciata and Grotta del Romito. Continue on foot along the dirt track towards the obvious North Face of Pizzo Campana. Close to the rock face the road curves off leftwards; take the path which leads off rightwards and follow the red markers. Climb through the hole in the metal fence and ascend leftwards to the summit. When you reach the tower descend right into the forest for circa 200m, then head right towards the grey rock face. Coast this and reach two large boulders. The route starts to the left of these, peg and sling visible at the start. 45 minutes from the car.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 25m, 3 bolts
P2: 6b, 20m, 4 bolts
P3: 6a, 20m, 1 bolts
P4: 5b, 20m, 1 bolts
P5: 4a, 25m.

GEAR

1 x 70m rope, 10 quickdraws, a set of small and medium wires, helmet.