Via Delenda Carthago - First Torre del Sella
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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Via Delenda Carthago: Petra Bernard climbing the Via Delenda Carthago. Photo Alberto De Giuli
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Beauty
First ascent
Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri, May 2002
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
180m
Height
2533m
Difficulty
6b max
Obligatory difficulty
6a obbl
Delenda Carthago, established by Rolly Galvagni and Massimo Maceri in May 2002, offers elegant climbing up excellent slabs with difficulties up to 6b. Bolted on lead, there are some old pegs on the lower section of the route as this follows the "Bruno Bertoldi" climbed in 1977 and established by Callegarin & c. Given its height, short approach and quick descent, the Delenda Carthago is an ideal choice for days when the weather is unstable.
Getting there
Reach Passo Sella from either Val di Fassa or Val Gardena. Access
From Passo Sella take the path to the base of the South Face. The start is shared with the route Schober-Rossi, to the left of Via Trenker. 20 min. Itinerary
P1: shared with Schober-Rossi. 30m
P2: easy ramp, unprotected IV+. 25m
P3: 6b, very beautiful. Bolts and 2 pegs. 25m
P4: 6a, IV+/V. From the ledge procedd past pegs beyond the arete to the right of the rocks (2 pegs), then continue up the ramp (1 bolt) 30m
P5: 6a, 5+ beautiful overhanging pocketed face, then easier terrain. 20m
P6: 6a. Beautiful traverse right. 20m
P7: 5+/6a. Another beautiful pitch up a solid sab. Belay on the ledge used by the Normal route, 2 bolts. 20m Descent
From the belay on the ledge beneath the summit follow the Normal route on the Prima Torre del Sella east (path, some grade I/II scramble). 40 minutes. Gear
11 quickdraws, some slings and kevlar threads. One 60m rope sufficient.
Reach Passo Sella from either Val di Fassa or Val Gardena. Access
From Passo Sella take the path to the base of the South Face. The start is shared with the route Schober-Rossi, to the left of Via Trenker. 20 min. Itinerary
P1: shared with Schober-Rossi. 30m
P2: easy ramp, unprotected IV+. 25m
P3: 6b, very beautiful. Bolts and 2 pegs. 25m
P4: 6a, IV+/V. From the ledge procedd past pegs beyond the arete to the right of the rocks (2 pegs), then continue up the ramp (1 bolt) 30m
P5: 6a, 5+ beautiful overhanging pocketed face, then easier terrain. 20m
P6: 6a. Beautiful traverse right. 20m
P7: 5+/6a. Another beautiful pitch up a solid sab. Belay on the ledge used by the Normal route, 2 bolts. 20m Descent
From the belay on the ledge beneath the summit follow the Normal route on the Prima Torre del Sella east (path, some grade I/II scramble). 40 minutes. Gear
11 quickdraws, some slings and kevlar threads. One 60m rope sufficient.
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Beauty
First ascent
Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri, May 2002
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
180m
Height
2533m
Difficulty
6b max
Obligatory difficulty
6a obbl
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