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Blede alla riscossa

First ascent: Siro Cannarella & Gianpaolo Rosada, 09/2004
By: Francesco Tremolada, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Fanis, Peak: Piccolo Lagazuoi, Height: 360m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

A great little route up good rock,  well protected, which climbs the West Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi directly above the museum "Forte Tre Sassi". All the belays are equipped with bolts and the hardest sections along the routes are bolt-protected, too.

GETTING THERE

Reach Passo Valparola from the Agordo valley, Alta Badia or from Cortina by driving up the SR 48.

ACCESS

Park by the museum "Forte Tre Sassi" and ascend diagonally from the right towards the left to reach the base of the wall and the obvious black streaks (40 minutes). The route starts at the base of left-hand streak (bolts clearly visible from below).

ROUTE

P1: 5+, 35m
P2: 5, 55m
P3: 1, 50m
P4: 4, 40m
P5: 5, 55m
P6: 4, 45m
P7: 5, 50m
P8: 4, 25m

DESCENT

Descend on foot, first south towards the summit, then right to follow the path used by the Austrians during the First World War to reach the Fort.

GEAR

55m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and camming devices.

NOTES

Grade: max 5+ (the first pitch is the hardest), predominantly grade 4 with some grade 5 sections. Superb rock on the first two pitches, then good but needs some cleaning.

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COMMENTS for the route "Blede alla riscossa"

30-08-2012, David Bogyo
The first two pitch is awesome, but the rest is horror - except chimney pitch 5, which was the crux (maybe VI-) for me. The second half of the sentence "Superb rock on the first two pitches then good but needs some cleaning." is not true, I think because of the line in chimneys, ledges etc it will never cleaned because of down running water. Only people who like loose rock ;)
18-08-2011, renzo Bragantini
Fatta ai primi di agosto 2011 con Piero Pagliani. Belli solo i primi due/tre tiri. Poi pure il più attento fatica a evitare che la corda butti giù sassi anche di grosse dimensioni. Buone le soste e adeguatamente protetta, ma anche in alto la roccia non è un granché. La sconsiglio.
05-08-2011, tommaso regesta
fatta il 3/08/2011 con Luca e alessandro. Stupendi i primi due tiri, il resto un pò discontinuo con roccia cosi cosi specie nel penultimo tiro. soste ottime.in via dietro di noi il mitico Pierino Radin!!!!
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

5+

FACE

West

LINK

www.proguide.it

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