Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowIl mio criceto

Il mio criceto

First ascent: Dejan Koren & Sranka Vidmar il 25 & 26/06/2011 & 02&03/07/2011
By: Dejan Koren
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tofane, Peak: Primo spigolo, Height: 2650m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

The 30-year-old and his girlfriend established the route over two weekends, chosing a line close (circa 10m) to "Aspettando la vetta", the route established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Giammario Meneghin in 2004. The new line crosses Aspettando on the third pitch and then breaks off left at the big roof. It was established ground-up except for the roof where Koren abseiled in and the distance between the bolts is, at times, fairly run out.

GETTING THERE

Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.

ACCESS

Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona.

ROUTE

P1: V, 35m
P2: 6a, 50m
P3: 6c, 45m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 6c, 50m
P6: 7a, 40m
P7: 6a, 50m
P8: V, 60m

DESCENT

Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani.

GEAR

Nuts and camming devices up to Camelot 2 are needed

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Il mio criceto"

No comments found for Il mio criceto

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7b

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

Sud

LENGTH

400m

PDF

Il mio criceto

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • La beffa
    Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. L ...
    2014-07-18 / Luciano Calvelo
  • Spigolo Ovest - Wiessner - Kees
    Percorsa nel 1978, ma la ricordo perfettamente. Via all'alte ...
    2014-07-13 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spigolo Nord Ovest
    Ripetuta qualche anno fa. Salita magnifica in ambiente stupe ...
    2014-07-12 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spitagoras
    Bella via su roccia da buona ad ottima. Chiodatura da via al ...
    2014-07-07 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello