Pompa Funebre - Monte Pellegrino - Parete dei Rotoli

Rolando Larcher
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Pompa Funebre: Luca Giupponi climbing Pompa funebre - Monte Pellegrino - Parete dei Rotoli, Sicily (ph GP Calzà)
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia, Luca Giupponi, Nicola Sartori 21/03/09, 31/03/11, 1/04/11
By
Rolando Larcher
Orientation
Northeast
Length
150m
Height
609m
Difficulty
8b
Obligatory difficulty
7a+

Route



The rock face which hosts the route Pompa funebre is located close to Palermo's port and is reached by crossing the Arenella quarter and the monumental Rotoli cemetery. This gets its name form the rocks which sometimes rotoli, sometimes roll down from the Monte Pellegrino amphitheatre above. The route takes a central line up the beautiful rock face: red, with white drips, extremely overhanging with plenty of stalactites and pockets. Prior to this route the wall was completely untouched. The name is a combination of pompa, power, which you need for these overhangs, and the view onto the cemetery: Pompa Funebre. Pompa funebre was freed on 02/04/2011 by all three first ascentionists, Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori.

Getting there

From Palermo reach the Arenella quarter and take via Pietro Bonanno to reach Monte Pellegrino.

Descent

Abseil downt the route and take great care as the it overhangs 25m. An 80m rope is recommened for the abseil off the 2nd pitch (15m overhanging) directly down to the ground.

Gear

Two 60m ropes, 13 quickdraws, slings and kevlar threads for the stalactites.





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Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia, Luca Giupponi, Nicola Sartori 21/03/09, 31/03/11, 1/04/11
By
Rolando Larcher
Orientation
Northeast
Length
150m
Height
609m
Difficulty
8b
Obligatory difficulty
7a+

Route



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