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Nocturnal Nightmare

First ascent: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker 09/11
By: Tom Randall
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Valle Orco, Peak: Pala di Fornolosa, Country: Italy, Region: Piedmont

Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!


From Turin drive north along the A5 motorway, exit at San Giusto Canavese and continue west along the SS460 past Rivarolo Canavese and up into the valley past Locana to Fornolosa.


From the start of the other established routes on the Pala di Fornolosa buttress make some assorted scrambling (some roped) up through the woods in a general righwards direction until you meet the huge vegetated ledge that splits the whole buttress at about 1 third height. You are now below the big shield of the main wall. Walk up and right to below the obvious crack.


P1: 45m. Climb the bold slab to the meet the beautiful finger crack that runs up the wall. At the end of the crack make a bold traverse leftwards for 8m to meet a second very thin crack line. Belay on small nuts (6c/+)
P2: 25m. Climb the thin crack line in the groove until it runs out at half height. The traverse out to the arete on the left (yikes!) and follow this for a while. When you are totally terrified you can reach back into the groove and place an important nut. Continue to climb the arete to meet the huge break above. (6b)
P3: 20m. Follow the break line leftwards around the corner for 15metres until you meet the base of a big offwidth flake (6a)
P4: 45m. The big offwidth flake! Lovely squeeze chimney right at the top. (6b)
P5: 20m. Easy climbing up ledges and cracks above (6a+).


Full trad rack

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E4 6a (6c/+)




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