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Mont Blanc - the best granite in Europe
text and photographs by Roberto Rossi
Getting there
From Italy: reach Courmayeur via the motorway A5 Torino-Aosta-Morgex. From Morgex continue along the SS26 to Courmayeur and then on to La Palud. Take the cable car from here to the Colle del Gigante and Rifugio Torino 3375m, an ideal base for all routes described in this article.

From France: reach Chamonix and take the Aiguile du Midi cable car to reach the Cormiques refuge. The walk-in from here takes about 1 hour more than from Rifugio Torino.
Mont Blanc climbing
  Click to enlarge
Pic Adolphe Rey
Many routes wind their way up Pic Adolphe Rey, including three extremely famous classics: Salluard”, “Gervasutti” and “Bettembourg-Thivierge”. Easy access and favourable orientation (S and SE) render Pic Adolphe Rey and excellent “stepping stone” for some of the harder climbs in this region.

Grand Capucin
“The obelisk par excellance, the king of the satellites”. Every arête, every corner boasts elegant proportions, all lines converge to the sky...” What can be added to Giovanni Bassanini’s description, other than to fully recommend going there at once?

Mont Blanc climbing
Trident du Tacul
This beautiful three-toothed outcrop demands perfect hand jamming and refined, technical climbing.
  The routes
  General info
  Map
  
Rock
Solid grantite, predominantly cracks, small roofs and smooth slabs. The routes require natural protection. Allow plenty of time to get used to placing pro.

Mont Blanc climbing
In-situ gear obviously varies from one route to the next, but belays and in-situ runners tend to be good. Bring a full set of wires, RPs, Friends and a selection of TCU’s. Two 50m ropes and a helmet are essential.

Best time of year
The best time of year is summer, but climbing can begin as early as April.
Weather
Excellent French weather forecast: 0033 836 680205;
On the web:
Monte Bianco cable car
www.montebianco.com/meteo_it.htm
Courmayeur weather
it.weather.yahoo.com/
Valle d'Aosta weather
www.regione.vda
Chamonix weather:
www.chamonix.com
www.meteo.fr/meteonet/
Webcam of Courmayeur :
www.regione.vda
Maps
IGN TOP 1:25.000, in particular Nr.3531ET
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