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Climbing Shipton Spire, Trango
Climbing Shipton Spire, Trango, topo
Intro
Trailer
Details
Women and chalk
New route opened 26/7-15/8/2001 by Mauro ‘Bubu’ Bole on the East Face of Shipton Spire (5850 m), a spectacular granite tower in the Trango valley, Pakistan. The three-man expedition consisted of Mauro Bole, his climbing partner Mario Cortese and the photographer/cameraman Fabio Dandri.
Where
Shipton Spire East Face (5850m) Trango, Pakistan
Altitude
Between 4500m and 5700m.
Grade
Almost always harder than 6c, some pitches 7c. One pitch 8a above 5000m.
Length
29 pitches, 1150m high
When
Departure from Italy 15 July 2001. 1st pitch 26 July. 1st 500m 16 August. Finished route on 15/08. A total of 13 days climbing spread out over a three week period.
Route description
Continuous and logical series of cracks and corners that take an obvious vertical line from the summit of Shipton Spire. 1150m long, it climbs the magnificent vertical and overhanging granite wall to the crest beneath the summit, where it joins up with the 1997 American "Nef des Fous".
Getting there
Islamabad – Skardu - Thongul (bus + jeep) , the small village that acts as the starting point for all trekking in the Baltoro region. A 2 day trek leads to Paiyu, another day leads across a glacial moraine to Shipton Spire BC, a beautiful grassy triangle that manages to survive the onslaught of the glacier nearby.
The video
The video and trailer of the expedition is produced by Barcode Films c/o Superstudio_Trieste Via Milano, italy
Mauro Bole climbing Shipton Spire, Trango, Pakistan
Mauro Bole and Mario Cortese (photo F. Dandri)
Women and chalk. Mauro Bole on the 7c+ pitch (photo F. Dandri)
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