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Morocco, Gorges du Todra
Introduction
The crags 1 2 3
Aiguille
Morocco factsheet
  
Morocco, Gole di Todra, Aguille

Two beautiful routes are recommended here. Climbed one after the other they make for a great day's outing:

AIGUILLE DU GUE'

Voie du Defilè

Length: 100m

Length: 5c max, 5c obligatory

Description
Short but intense route up excellent rock with an exciting and airy third pitch. Remains in the shade all day long. Take a set of nuts and some slings. A helmet is recommended.

Approach

One minute from the track, right at the start of the gorge, 100m after Hotel Mansour. Avoid the river by crossing it at its shallowest point and traverse leftwards along a small ledge above the water's edge. The first bolt is visible up high.

Descent

From the notch at the end of the traverse down-climb for about 15m (II°) to reach a path within the De Niabe valley. This leads down to Hotel Mansour in about 20 mins.
N.B. instead of descending from the notch one can continue up the beautiful Aiguille de Grabe pillar (see below).

The route
L1: 30m, 5b, 2 bolts; L2 : 20m, 5b, 4 bolts; L3 : 45m, 5c, 7 bolts; L4 : 40m, 5c initially (2 bolts), then 3a (natural belay); L5: 45m traverse, 4b, natural pro.


AIGUILLE DE GABRE

Pilier du Guetteur

Length: 150m

Length: 6b max, 6a obligatory

Description
This good route on exceptionally rough rock is not to be missed, especially if combined with Voie du Defilè (see above) as the two make for a great day's climbing. The view from the summit over the gorge and towards the palm trees is fantastic. A rack of natural protection is recommended.

Approach
T
wo approaches lead to the base of the route. Either climb Voie du Defilè all'Aguille du Guè (see above) or take the De Naibe path and traverse leftwards at the notch which divides Aiguille du Guè from Aiguille de Grabe. Allow 30 mins from Hotel Mansour.

Descent
Reach the plateau via broken rock then traverse down rightwards to the Du Niabe valley and path that leads quickly to Hotel Mansour.

The route
L1: 45m 4a, (natural belay); L2: 30m, 6a+, 8 bolts; L3: 40m, 6b, 8 bolts; L4: 40m, 5b, 2 bolts; L5: 40m, 5b natural pro; L6: 50m, 5c natural pro.

Morocco, Gole di Todra, map
click to enlarge



sports climbing in Morocco

Climbing in Todra, on the third pitch of Pilier Guetteur. Excellent climbing up fantastic rock.



Morocco, Gole di Todra, Aguille Guetteur

Nearing the top of Pilier Guetteur in the Gorges du Todra.
photo E. Pagani


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