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| Equipment The entire crag has been equipped with inox and resin bolts and abseil chains by the B&B "A Ca' da Pria" run by Adele Gamba and Flaviano Bessone, with the help of Bruno Fonnesu and the Cai Bordighera (Im). The crag The bowl-shaped reddish/grey limestone crag is often overhanging and due to its tufas and small roofs offers varied climbing styles. It faces NNE; in spring and summer the routes 1-7 receive the shade from 10.30 onwards, routes 8-13 from 12.30 and route no. 15 from 15.00. Not recommended in winter. Getting there From Nebida drive towards Buggerru to where the road looks down onto the village and a large fence has been erected to protect from falling rocks (16 km from Nebida). Park a few hundred meters on the right by the wood and continue on foot along the road to an opening beneath the fence. Once through this turn right and return into the wood. At its end a path (red markers) leads up to the crag. Allow 10 mins for the walk-in. |
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![]() The Cuenca del Cabron photo A. Gamba |
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An asterisk indicates the best routes From left to right: 1. Viva la verdad 5c/6a, 15 m 2. Clandestino 6c+*, 17 m 3. Desaparecido 6b*, 20 m 4. Mama call 7a, 18 m (direct finish) 5. King of the bongo 7a*, 20 m 6. Lagrimas de oro 7a/7a+*, 23 m 7. Luna y sol 6c+*, 20 m 8bis. Mas escandalosa 7a/7a+, 23 m 8. El cocodrilo 6b/6b+*, 23 m 9. Por el suelo 7a*, 22 m 10. Esperando la ultima ola 7a+*, 25 m (7a+/7b if taken directly up slab) 11. Mano Negra 7b*, 28 m 12. Dia luna dia pena 7a/7a+*, 16 m 13. El viento 7b, 16 m (bouldery start) 14. Minha galera 6b, 18 m About 20m down and to the right: 15. Bienvenida a Tijuana 6b+, 30 m |
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![]() Ezio Marlier on-sighting 'Esperando la ultima ola' 7a+ at the Cuenca del Cabron - photo A. Gamba |
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