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| This new route follows an interesting line up the obvious south arête of the Pan di Zucchero, located close to Masua, southern Sardinia. Length 120 meters Rock Excellent marine limestone, take care though at the start of pitches 3 and 4 where there are some loose boulders. Grade Max 6b (6a obl.) Equipment Equipped from above using inox bolts (two for the belays) by Flaviano Bessone and Bruno Fonnesu, in July/August 2000. Gear 12 quickdraws and a single 70m rope. Abseils are possible with a 60m rope but pay particular attention as the final abseil is 30m exactly. Use a prussik!. Best time of year Climbing is possible all year round, sea permitting. In the summer months start at dawn to climb in the shade. Getting there By boat. This is organised by telephoning 0781 474001 or 0335 5376382. From where the boat drops you off ascend rightwards and then immediately leftwards up the steps used by the miners last century (old iron bars) to reach a flat section (old extraction point). Walk beneath the arched rock and climb onto it with the aid of a fixed rope to reach a small path that leads leftwards to the remains of an old wooden ladder. Avoid this by making use of a fixed rope to climb up the final rock step on its left to reach a track that swiftly leads to the summit plateau. At its left-hand end and just beneath the summit proper a rope marks the top of the route (20 mins). Rack-up here and abseil from the obvious abseil ring located a few meters lower down. Even in summer long climbing pants are recommend as the thorns are remorseless! 1st abseil: leftwards (facing the sea) to the top of a pillar a (28 m); 2nd abseil: along the right-hand side of the pillar. The anchor is on the right, close to the boulders. Pay particular attention! (29 m); 3rd abseil: directly down onto a small pillar (28 m); 4th abseil: rightwards, the first belay is located in a small niche about 12m above the sea level (30m exactly). Pre-clip the bolts to stop the rope from falling into the sea when you pull it through! |
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 Pan di Zucchero, Iglesiente : Didi takes a line along the arête on the right photo A. Gamba |
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 Click to enlarge The route L1: crack-lined slab (5c/6a, 31m); L2: technical arête (5c, 30m); L3: white pillar, excellent weather rock (6a+, 30 m); L4: balancy slab followed by overhang (6b, 29 m). |
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