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  • 05.02.2016 Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior

    Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior

    The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.

  • 04.02.2016 Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.

  • 04.02.2016 Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona

    Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona

    Italian climber Luca Rinaldi has repeated Off the Wagon, the boulder problem graded 8B+ located in Valle Bavona, Switzerland.

  • 03.02.2016 Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.

    Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
    05.02.2016 by Arnaud Petit in Climbing

    Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior

    The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
    04.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.

    Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona
    04.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona

    Italian climber Luca Rinaldi has repeated Off the Wagon, the boulder problem graded 8B+ located in Valle Bavona, Switzerland.

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
    03.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.

    New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
    02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico

    From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.

    Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek
    02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek

    The trailer of the Alpine Wall Tour, carried out by Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek on five difficult rock climbs in the Alps: End of Silence (Berchtesgaden Alps) Silbergeier (Rätikon), Des Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) Brento Centro (Monte Brento), Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites)

    Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
    01.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin

    Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed by Rolando Larcher and "Conosci te stesso?" (E7 6c or 8a), a trad pitch first ascended by Larcher.

    Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be
    29.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be

    Ermanno Salvaterra documents the climbing and Patagonia in1993-94 in this video, Fuiste Alpiste, recently updated with names of the climbers of those unforgettable six months spent, more than twenty years ago, at the base camp of Cerro Torre.

    Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
    29.01.2016 by Maurizio Oviglia in Climbing

    Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy

    Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.

    Adiós Iñaki Coussirat
    28.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Adiós Iñaki Coussirat

    On 21/01/2015 Inaki Coussirat died while climbing Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Marcello Cominetti remembers the promising young Argentine alpinist.

    Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije
    26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije

    The press release of the 24th edition of the prestigious international mountaineering award Piolet d’Or that will be celebrated from 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave-La Meije, France.

    Altri cieli, art and climbing at Ulassai in Sardinia
    25.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Altri cieli, art and climbing at Ulassai in Sardinia

    Maurizio Oviglia introduces Altri Cieli, the documentary about the little Sardinian village of Ulassai that combines rock climbing with art, starting from the artist Maria Lai.

    Tom Randall climbing The Kraken V13 at Hartland Quay, England
    24.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Tom Randall climbing The Kraken V13 at Hartland Quay, England

    The video of English crack climber Tom Randall making the first ascent of The Kraken V13 at Hartland Quay, England.

    Mont Blanc on Google Street View
    23.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mont Blanc on Google Street View

    Google has published a Street View exploration of the Mont Blanc, produced together with Kilian Jornet Burgada, Catherine Destivelle, Patrick Gabarrou, Corrado Korra Pesce, Laetitia Roux, Ueli Steck, Candide Thovex and photographers Jonathan Griffith, Renan Ozturk, Sender Films.

    Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
    22.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci

    On 19 January 2016 the Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci made the first repeat of Via dei Ragni up the East Pillar of Fitz Roy, established in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles.

    Guillaume Glairon-Mondet claims 8c+ boulder at Fontainebleau
    21.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Guillaume Glairon-Mondet claims 8c+ boulder at Fontainebleau

    At Fontainebleau in France Guillaume Glairon Mondet has made the first ascent of "Le Pied à Coulisse", a new boulder problem that at 8C+ checks in as one of the hardest in the world.

    Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
    20.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist

    Interview with Italian rock climber Silvio Reffo who at Misja Pec in Slovenia sent his 10th 9a sports climb.

    Melloblocco 2016 - register now for the legendary bouldering meeting in Val di Mello - Val Masino
    20.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

    Melloblocco 2016 - register now for the legendary bouldering meeting in Val di Mello - Val Masino

    Pre-registration is now online for Melloblocco 2016, the biggest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world that will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, from 5 - 8 May 2016.

    La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
    18.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth

    From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.

    Video: Adam Ondra repeating Modified 9a+ in Frankenjura
    17.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Video: Adam Ondra repeating Modified 9a+ in Frankenjura

    Adam Ondra making the first repeat of Modified, at 9a+ one of the hardest sport climbs in the Frankenjura, Germany.

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    • During the Swatch Freeride World Tour by The North Face
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    • Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas making the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m, 5 - 7/04/2013) , Citadel East Face, Kichatna Range, Alaska.
    • Making the first ascent of Stralasegne (500m, M5, 1 section M6) Pala San Martino North Face (Dolomites)
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