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Roberta 83

First ascent: Roberto Platter & Luigi Felicetti 1983. FFA: Hanspeter Eisendle
By: Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Piz Ciavazes, Country: Italy

Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful.  After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b region. You can abseil quickly off the route (two 60m ropes) following the abseils marked on the topo.

GETTING THERE

From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.

ACCESS

From the car park walk up the path which leads to the base of the mountain. Via Roberta 83 begins in the middle of the face, circa 30m to the left of Via Micheluzzi, and the route name is marked at the base. As you walk towards the face, aim for the horizontal roof 50m above the base.

ROUTE

P1: 6a+, 30m
P2: 6a, 20m
P3: 6b, 30m
P4: 6a, 25m
P5: 6a, 15m
P6: 7a+, 20m
P7: 6a+, 35m
P8: 6b+, 30m
P9: 6b+, 40m

DESCENT

5 abseils or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci.

GEAR

12 quickdraws. Single rope if you do not intend to abseil off.

NOTES

On the slab on pitch 6 climb to the right of the bolts. If you climb directly the route becomes 7b+/7c.

Rebolted byAlberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard (G.G.A.A.) in summer 2009. Thanks to Val di Fassa Climbing for having provided the gear.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b

FACE

South

LENGTH

250m

PDF

Roberta 83

LINK

www.albertodegiuli.com

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