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Zwergenkönig

First ascent: Florian & Martin Riegler, 09/09/2006
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Catinaccio, Peak: Roda de Vael, Country: Italy

Florian Riegler describes his route as follows: "My brother and I were attracted by the large roof on this wall, perhaps one of the most overhanging in the Dolomites. We stated to bolt the route in summer 2004 but after the first 3-4 pitches we gave up because of the great psychological pressure. A year later we returned and continued the route up to the large roof, but the uncertainties of the roof made us give up once again. In 2006 after having discussed this greatly and after careful preparation we decided to attempt the roof, knowing that once started we wouldn't be able to return... That's how we finished this route which is extremely demanding both physically and psychologically. Calculate 10 - 12 hours for the ascent (12 pitches)."

GETTING THERE

From Bolzano drive through the Val d'Ega to Passo di Carrezza and then either take the chairlift or walk to Rifugio Paolina at 2125m. Take path No. 551 towards Passo Vajolon and after circa 30 min head up the small path which leads to the base of the wall.

ACCESS

Just like all other routes on this face, start between Eisenstecken and Schrott/Abraham

DESCENT

Descend down to via ferrata to reach Passo Vajolon, then continue for a further 40 minutes to the base of the rock face.

GEAR

All belays and pegs have been left in-situ. Some belays have been made safer with hand-placed bolts. Take 15 quickdraws, mid and large size friends, 2 60m ropes.

NOTES

Type of climbing: The first section is sustained, friable and psychologically demanding, the second part climbs up excellent quality rock, very overhanging pocket climbing. Beware: retreat after the large roof is impossible.
First ascent: Florian and Martin Riegler, completed on 09/09/2006
First free ascent: Florian and Martin Riegler on 29/09/2006

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer or start of autumn when the face is dry.

DIFFICULTY

IX

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

VIII

FACE

N

LENGTH

380m

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