4 giorni una estate
A great route that climbs up the imposing West Face of the Sass Pordoi, to the left of Abram. The route takes a direct and extremely exposed line up excellent rock.
The route was climbed from the ground up over an intense four day period, and weighs in at 6b/6b+ obbligatory, with two pitches graded 6c+ and 7a. The 10mm bolts are fairly run out at times(4-8 meters) and a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads may therefore be found useful for added protection.
From Canazei take the road to Passo Sella. After the turn-off for Passo Pordoi park the car at the Pian Schiavaneis restaurant.
The walk-in takes about 40 mins. From the car follow path no. 647 for Piz Boè and the Val Lasties. Ithe path rises directly up to the Sass Pordoi wall and then continues up a steep scree slope beneath the base of the wall. Walk past the start of the via Fedele to a large black wall. Start on the left, just before the waterfall (cairn marker and bolt).grande parete nera, al suo lato sinistro poco prima di una cascata d'acqua è posto l'attacco (ometto e spit visibile).
From the top of the route continue up on foot to the summit and either take the cable car back down to Passo Pordoi, or walk down the path. Alternativly, abseil down the route (make sure to clip in some bolts so as to reach the belays) or finish the route at half-height and traverse right to meet up with the path that leads down to Passo Pordoi.
The route is bolted throughout using 10mm bolt, at times though they may be run out. We recommend you take a set of mid-sized wires ( 2-6 Wild Country), kevlar threads and small friends (Camalot 0,2- 0,3 -0,5).