Don Quixote - Marmolada d'Ombretta
Copia link
Planetmountain
1 / 15
Don Quixote: Marmolada, Dolomites
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Heinz Mariacher, Reinhard Schiestl 1979
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
Sud
Length
750m (20 pitches)
Height
3247m
Difficulty
6
Obligatory difficulty
6
Route
Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts up a series of streaks, easy steps and grey slabs first leftwards than rightwards, to then continue up a series of fantastically compact limestone. After the ledge at mid-height the route becomes even more interesting, to finish up some incomparably beautiful grey slabs.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia. Access
From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. The start of the route is located beneath the slanting small gully (circa 1 hour from Rif. Falier). Descent
Two 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car. Gear
Two 50m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings. Notes
The grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia. Access
From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. The start of the route is located beneath the slanting small gully (circa 1 hour from Rif. Falier). Descent
Two 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car. Gear
Two 50m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings. Notes
The grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.
See all photos
Comments
01/12/2013 moreno rossini
Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta era il1985, ma la ricordo ancora bene! Allora non erano molti che andavano a ripeterla e non era una classica come oggi e per noi era come combattere contro il drago... poi vinto molto bene..... un consiglio, partite molto presto dal rif.Falier perché la via e' lunga e il difficile e' in alto. Considerate l'orario di partenza dell'ultima funivia per il ritorno, in quanto voi dorete essere gia' li . E' una di quelle vie che non deve mancare nel carnet di un alpinista. ANDATELA A FARE E BUONA SALITA !
25/08/2009 Jorg Vegter
This was one of my first long routes. Fantastic stuff... though first half was less interesting. We took way to long and missed the cable car down. Luckily got a lift from a German cable way mechanic! Great route.
26/05/2009 Swen Harald
Not as good as I had expected. Only a couple of nice pitches and a lot of scrambling. Nice view and possitions though. Good route to climb simultaneously in order to be fast. Crux pitch (4th to last) was harder then 6a (6b?). 3rd to last pitch right hand variation about 6c? Good spring-time route.
20/09/2008 Patrick Raspo
Bellissimo l'ambiente ma l'arrampicata una delusione, per via del fatto che non bisogna chiodare ecc, si è costretti a fare i topi nelle fessurone marciotte con a fianco delle placche stupende, di tiri in placca a buchi ce ne sono forse 2 a voler esagerare, rispetto l'etica delle dolomiti, ma non parlatemi di piacere di arrampicare che ce n'è poco, qui l'importante è salire in fretta e senza chiodare.
Beauty
First ascent
Heinz Mariacher, Reinhard Schiestl 1979
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
Sud
Length
750m (20 pitches)
Height
3247m
Difficulty
6
Obligatory difficulty
6
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
