Roberta + diedro Buhl - Piz Ciavazes
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Roberta + diedro Buhl
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
R. Platter & Felicetti + H. Buhl
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
250m
Difficulty
6a+
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Route
Beautiful combination that starts up the first half of Roberta 89 to then continue along Via Buhl. The route follows a logical line up featured slab to a large corner located in the middle of the Piz Ciavazes face. All belays are bolted and the route is well-equipped throughout with in-situ pegs.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park follow a small path up to the wall. The route starts a few meters left of Via Micheluzzi, in the center of the face, roughly in line with the obvious large roof at about 50m (route name written at the base). Descent
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily. Gear
A set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park follow a small path up to the wall. The route starts a few meters left of Via Micheluzzi, in the center of the face, roughly in line with the obvious large roof at about 50m (route name written at the base). Descent
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily. Gear
A set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.
Comments
22/05/2009 manuel stuflesser
una bella combinazione, che ho fatto ieri, é la heinl /wehinger con la buhl. il primo tiro é strapiombante con tantissimi chiodi vecchi. in salita libera é un 7+. dopo viene un tiro facile, 4+ fino a una sosta con spit. inseguito da un corto dietro 5. il quarto tiri 6+ é un bel dietro con una roccia
03/08/2007 Ik
La Roberta arriva al 6a+ bella scalata tecnica su placca, per il Buhl anche per me 6+: io ho trovato pochi chiodi nel diedro finale (un pò unto) comunque ben proteggibile con nuts e friends
21/06/2007 massimo pindo
il terzo tiro della roberta 83 è piu di un 6a...infatti sulle guide dei catores è data 6b...aggiungerei chiodata lunga...giusto per la cronaca. via stupenda
04/09/2006 jacopo compagnoni
bellissima via! i tiri della buhl veramente super...
Beauty
First ascent
R. Platter & Felicetti + H. Buhl
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
250m
Difficulty
6a+
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Route
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