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Demetz

First ascent: Gluck, Demetz 1935
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: II Torre del Sella, Height: 2597m, Country: Italy

One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto the arête at about half-height and is graded 6 or AO. The line then follows a series of good but exposed corners and cracks to the summit. Given the orientation the route is often cold, even in summer, especially if you opt for an early start.

ACCESS

From P. Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up to the start in the middle of the west face of the II Torre. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in.

DESCENT

From the summit descend (I and II) eastwards to reach the col between the II Torre and the arête that leads up from Piz Ciavazes. From here follow the path down easy stepped terain to meet up with the descent route from the Ist tower. Walk beneath the south face of the Ist tower and return to the pass.

GEAR

A set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.

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COMMENTS for the route "Demetz"

10-09-2012, Renzo Bragantini
Fatta tanti anni fa con mio fratello salvatore. La ricordo molto bella, non scontata, su roccia ottima. Decisamente da consigliare.
10-06-2004, Piero Pagliani
Vale la pena percorrerla. E' su roccia buona e non è mai banale.Una piccola classica che merita.
21-09-2003, Matteo xx
Al secondo tiro occhioo ad non attraversare troppo in basso x un cengia erbosa che poi verticalizza (chiodo) che porta a sx dello spigolo su un diedro spesso bagnato.
18-08-2003, chris
ottima,molto bella,remunerativa e consigliabile a non espertissimi.un po precari i chiodi sulla seconda sosta,in placca..meglio non appendersi come salami..
15-07-2003, Federico Bernardin
Roccia ottima. Magnifici i tiri finali in diedro. Apparte il freddo una via da fare.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

V

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

V

FACE

NW

LENGTH

250m

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