Spigolo Costantini - Ghedina - Tofana di Rozes
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Spigolo Costantini - Ghedina
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
E. Costantini, L. Ghedina, 1946
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
500m
Difficulty
6-
Route
A relatively easy and popular climb (UIAA 4 and 5, one 6- crux) up the left-hand arête of the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes. The three hard pitches traverse leftwards past two large yellow roofs at half height. Paradoxically, the large quantity of in-situ gear off-route makes correct route finding difficult!
Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from the rifugio Dibona. Walk up the gully behind the arête and reach the arête proper by walking along a ledge. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Reach the top of the pillar in the same place as Costantini - Appolonio and then traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to the rifugio Giussani. Gear
Although there is some in-situ gear, bring a full trad rack.
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from the rifugio Dibona. Walk up the gully behind the arête and reach the arête proper by walking along a ledge. The route starts on the left beneath the diagonal corner. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
Reach the top of the pillar in the same place as Costantini - Appolonio and then traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to the rifugio Giussani. Gear
Although there is some in-situ gear, bring a full trad rack.
Comments
27/08/2007 Piero Pagliani
E' un bello spigolo con tratti divertenti (lo zig-zag tra i tetti) e da intuire nella parte bassa. Non è una via di ripiego, ma una salita che vale di per sé.
03/07/2006 andrea berardi
bella classica!pochi chiodi!secondo me il tiro prima del traverso è il più impegnativo!attenzione!!!nel tiro che parte sotto il tetto giallo non seguire i chiodi che finiscono sotto il tetto,ma seguire verso sininistra!!un saluto al nico,samu,eli,max&daniele..compagni di scalata!!
24/06/2006 antonio antonio
Via molto bella abbastanza estetica nella prima parte,più da ricerca dopo il traverso.Il tiro chiave caratteristico ed esposto.Roccia quasi sempre ottima ,in parete pochi chiodi di progressione circa un 25,30 per quasi seicento metri di via.
25/08/2005 Maurizio Maurizio
molto bella , alcuni tiri sottovalutati, sul traverso di 6° tenersi bassi e sostare prima dello spigolo , lo sviluppo e' maggiore da quello descritto dalla relazione . mandi
Beauty
First ascent
E. Costantini, L. Ghedina, 1946
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
500m
Difficulty
6-
Route
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