Viki krema - Tofana di Rozes
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Viki krema: The route line of Viki krema, established by Tomaž Jakofčič an Luka Lindič
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Tomaž Jakofčič, Luka Lindič summer 2011
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Length
800 m
Difficulty
VIII+/IX-
Obligatory difficulty
VIII-
Route
Viki krema climbs the immense South Face of the Tofana di Rozes.
The route starts in the triangular face to the right of the classic Eötvös Dimai. Above the big amphitheatre it climbs the steep yellow wall to the left of the route established in 1977 by the local Cortina-based Scoitattoli climbers Andrea Menardi and Carlo Michielli. Jakofčič and Lindic established the route over a four day period ground-up, then freed it on 28 and 29 September, forging their way through the last unknown 100m of steep ground.
The route starts in the triangular face to the right of the classic Eötvös Dimai. Above the big amphitheatre it climbs the steep yellow wall to the left of the route established in 1977 by the local Cortina-based Scoitattoli climbers Andrea Menardi and Carlo Michielli. Jakofčič and Lindic established the route over a four day period ground-up, then freed it on 28 and 29 September, forging their way through the last unknown 100m of steep ground.
Jakofčič commented: "Viki krema is not an alpine sport climb and despite the bolts it is a rather serious undertaking with long sections without bolts. Everything we used (23 bolts, four pitons and equiped belays) was left in-situ, apart from the trad rack. Expect 8-10 hours of climbing. One set of friends, nuts and tricams should be sufficient for a skilled climbers. The route generally follows very good rock and the exposure and views from the upper wall are simply awesome."
Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
From Rifugio Dibona follow path no. 442 beneath the South Face of the Tofana di Rozes. Gear
One set of friends, nuts and tricams should be sufficient for a skilled climbers.
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
From Rifugio Dibona follow path no. 442 beneath the South Face of the Tofana di Rozes. Gear
One set of friends, nuts and tricams should be sufficient for a skilled climbers.
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Beauty
First ascent
Tomaž Jakofčič, Luka Lindič summer 2011
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
South
Length
800 m
Difficulty
VIII+/IX-
Obligatory difficulty
VIII-
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
13/10/2011 - Alpinism
Tofana Di Rozes, new route by Jakofcic and Lindic in the Dolomites At the end of September Slovenian alpinists Tomaz Jakofcic and Luka Lindic established Viki krema (VIII+/IX-, VIII- obl., 800m) up the Tofana Di Rozes, Dolomites.