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Petri Heil

First ascent: Hannes Pfeifhofer, Dietmar Niederbrunner, 5 giorni summer 2016. FFA: Hannes Pfeifhofer, Dietmar Niederbrunner, 30/09/2016
By: Hannes Pfeifhofer
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Peak: Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Height: 2973 m, Country: Italy

Petri Heil is a beautiful rock climb up excellent rock in an amazing setting. The route climbs close to the famous Demuthkante up the lefthand side of the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.

GETTING THERE

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo. These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Auronzo take path no.105 to Col di Mezzo and continue to the North Face. Follow the track across the scree to the base of the arête. Petri Heil starts to the right of Demuthkante.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 30 m
P2: 5-, 20 m
P3: 4+, 15 m
P4: 6c+, 32 m
P5: 6a+, 25 m
P6: 6a, 20 m
P7: 5+, 25 m
P8: 4, 40 m
P9: 4+, 46 m
P10: 6a+, 45 m
P11: 5, 32 m 
P12: 6a+, 22 m
P13: 6b, 24m
P14: 5-, 35 m
P15: 5+, 25 m
P16: 6a, 40 m
P17: 5+, 45 m
P18: 6a+, 35 m
P19: 6b, 36 m

DESCENT

Descend down the normal route.

GEAR

15 quickdraws, mid-sized Friends: Camelot #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #1,  2 x 50m half ropes

NOTES

The route is portected with normal pegs and bolts. Although it is possible to abseil down the route, this is very difficult. On the crux pitch you need to usa a different belay for the absile. WARNING: abseil directly down the fallline, overhanging, do a pendulm!

WARNING: In rainstorm the first 7 pitches become wet immediately as they act as a runoff. Normally they dry out 1 day after rain.

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6c+

FACE

North

LENGTH

590 m

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Petri Heil

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