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Via Ladri

First ascent: Massimo Faletti, Cristian Brenna, Silvestro and Tomas Franchini from 2005 to 2012
By: Massimo Faletti, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta, Peak: Campanile Basso, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Established in late autumn and early winter - from 2005 onwards - to avoid rocks falling onto the famous Bocchette via ferrata and the Via Normale, Via Ladri now offers cleaned rock, beautiful in most parts, with the final pitches breaching outstanding rock.

ACCESS

Via Ladri starts circa 200m to the left of Via Normale.

ROUTE

Follow a series of cracks which split the face and head towards the overhanging area to theledge used by the route Stenico Navasa located above the obvious triangular roof. Fromher proceed diagonally rightwards to the left of the route Fox Stenico. Breach the overhangs fromright to left (crux). Another pitch leads to the summit.

GEAR

Bolts at belays, two 8mm bolts along the pitches, all pegs left in-situ as well as some nuts.

For a repeat take a set of small Alien, BD Camalot from 0.75 to 3, a set of nuts, some pegs and a hammer.

NOTES

A particular thanks to those who accompanied me: L. Mathis, A. Grisenti, r. Predotti.

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BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Autumn

DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

South

LINK ZONE

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