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Schirata - Piz Ciavazes

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Manuel Stuflesser

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Schirata: Martin Riegler beneath the rock face

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Manuel Stuflesser, Martin Riegler winter 2011/12. FFA: 31/03/2012 Stuflesser & Riegler

Manuel Stuflesser

Orientation

South

Length

235m

Difficulty

IX-

Route

Beautiful route established in winter 2011/12 by Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler. Located between the routes Via Zeni and Non ci resta che piangere, the third pitch was established by unknown climbers.

Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
Walk up the path and head towards the obvious arete and roofs breached by Via Italia 61. Reach the base of the arete and scramble up the grassy pedestal on the left, keeping close to the rock face. Itinerary
P1: II, 55m
P2: VIII-, 40m
P3: VII+, 20m
P4: VIII-, 25m
P5: VI, 20m
P6: VII, 15m
P7: IX-, 25m
P8: V, 35m Descent
From the ledge at mid height traverse right and scramble back down to the pass. Gear
The route is protected by some in-situ pegs and bolts. Nuts and camming devices needed

Schirata Piz Ciavazes - Schirata: Pitch 2 and view onto the crux pitch

Schirata Piz Ciavazes - Schirata: Pitch 6, protected with camming devices, behind the corner climbed by Via Zeni.

Schirata Piz Ciavazes - Schirata: The crux pitch seen from the descent along the Camosci ledge.

Schirata Piz Ciavazes - Schirata: Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler on the Cengia dei Camosciledge after having made the first free ascent of Schirata, Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites)

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17/08/2012 Alex Walpoth

Ho ripetuto la via insieme al mio amico Martin Dejori. Purtroppo siamo stati un po' delusi, soprattutto per la roccia assai friabile. Bello comunque il tiro chiave, molto atletico! Con la valutazione siamo d'accordo tranne per il 3. tiro (un po' difficile per 7 ).

Beauty

First ascent

Manuel Stuflesser, Martin Riegler winter 2011/12. FFA: 31/03/2012 Stuflesser & Riegler

Manuel Stuflesser

Orientation

South

Length

235m

Difficulty

IX-

Route

Routes in the same mountain group