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Bruderliebe

First ascent: Hansjörg Auer, Vitus Auer summer 2011. First free ascent: Hansjörg Auer 21/08/2011
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Marmolada, Peak: Marmolada d'Ombretta, Height: 3247m, Country: Italy

Bruderliebe was first ascended in summer 2011 by Hansjörg Auer together with his brother Vitus. Hansjörg described the route as follows: "Bruderliebe is 19 pitches long with difficulties up to 8b/8b+. I established it ground-up this summer together with my brother during a fantastic 8 day period. The route takes a line up the Ombretta, on the right-hand side of the Elephant's back, just to the right of '40 anni per il Falier'. It crosses 'Verena Vinus' on the belay after pitch four, and crosses 40 anni on the belay after pitch 6. The major difficulties are in the lower section where the rock is fantastic and after a couple of pitches up to 7c it culminates with the 50m crux pitch. The difficulties then ease off considerably and on the upper section the rock quality is no longer as outstanding."

GETTING THERE

Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela.

ACCESS

From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes.

ROUTE

P1: 6a, 60m
P2: 6b, 60m
P3: 7c, 30m
P4: 7c, 45m
P5: 7a+, 40m
P6: 8a/+, 50m
P7: 6c, 35m
P8: 5c, 50m
P9: 4a, 60m
P10: 4a
P11: 5c, 60m
P12: 6b, 40m
P13: 5a, 30m
P14: 5a, 60m
P15: 6a, 50m
P16: 6a+, 50m
P17: 5a, 60m
P18: 4a, 60m
P19: 4a, 30m

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

8b/+

FACE

South

LENGTH

800m

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LINK

www.hansjoerg-auer.at

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