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Via Delenda Carthago

First ascent: Roly Galvagni, Massimo Maceri, May 2002
By: Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: First Torre del Sella, Height: 2533m, Country: Italy

Delenda Carthago, established by Rolly Galvagni and Massimo Maceri in May 2002, offers elegant climbing up excellent slabs with difficulties up to 6b. Bolted on lead, there are some old pegs on the lower section of the route as this follows the "Bruno Bertoldi" climbed in 1977 and established by Callegarin & c. Given its height, short approach and quick descent, the Delenda Carthago is an ideal choice for days when the weather is unstable.

GETTING THERE

Reach Passo Sella from either Val di Fassa or Val Gardena.

ACCESS

From Passo Sella take the path to the base of the South Face. The start is shared with the route Schober-Rossi, to the left of Via Trenker. 20 min.

ROUTE

P1: shared with Schober-Rossi
P2: easy ramp, unprotected IV+
P3: 6b, very beautiful. Bolts and 2 pegs.
P4: 6a, IV+/V. From the ledge procedd past pegs beyond the arete to the right of the rocks (2 pegs), then continue up the ramp (1 bolt)
P5: 6a, 5+ beautiful overhanging pocketed face, then easier terrain
P6: 6a. Beautiful traverse right-.
P7: 5+/6a. Another beautiful pitch up a solid sab. Belay on the ledge used by the Normal route, 2 bolts.

DESCENT

From the belay on the ledge beneath the summit follow the Normal route on the Prima Torre del Sella east (path, some grade I/II scramble). 40 minutes.

GEAR

11 quickdraws, some slings and kevlar threads. One 60m rope sufficient.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6b max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a obbl

FACE

South

LENGTH

180m

PDF

Via Delenda Carthago

LINK

www.albertodegiuli.com

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