Il mio criceto - Tofana di Rozes Primo Spigolo
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Dejan Koren
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Il mio criceto
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Dejan Koren & Sranka Vidmar il 25 & 26/06/2011 & 02&03/07/2011
By
Dejan Koren
Orientation
Sud
Length
400m
Height
2650m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
The 30-year-old and his girlfriend established the route over two weekends, chosing a line close (circa 10m) to "Aspettando la vetta", the route established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Giammario Meneghin in 2004. The new line crosses Aspettando on the third pitch and then breaks off left at the big roof. It was established ground-up except for the roof where Koren abseiled in and the distance between the bolts is, at times, fairly run out.
Getting there
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. Itinerary
P1: V, 35m
P2: 6a, 50m
P3: 6c, 45m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 6c, 50m
P6: 7a, 40m
P7: 6a, 50m
P8: V, 60m Descent
Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani. Gear
Nuts and camming devices up to Camelot 2 are needed
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona. Itinerary
P1: V, 35m
P2: 6a, 50m
P3: 6c, 45m
P4: 7b, 15m
P5: 6c, 50m
P6: 7a, 40m
P7: 6a, 50m
P8: V, 60m Descent
Traverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta buttress. Walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to Rifugio Giussani. Gear
Nuts and camming devices up to Camelot 2 are needed
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Beauty
First ascent
Dejan Koren & Sranka Vidmar il 25 & 26/06/2011 & 02&03/07/2011
By
Dejan Koren
Orientation
Sud
Length
400m
Height
2650m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
