Crépe de Oucèra Alti

Italy>Veneto>Belluno>Cortina d’Ampezzo
Roberto Casanova
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Luca Zardini climbing at Crepe de Oucera
Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8a+
Height
1800 m
Rock type
Dolomite
Orientation
SSE
Rope
70 m rope


From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites. Located at 1800m, the Crépe de Oucèra offers 70 pitches from 6a to 8a+. these are renowned for their beauty, ease of access and orientation, ensuring the crag's popularity not only in the hot summer months. The rock is solid with plenty of small weathered pockets and flakes, offering a variety of different climbing styles up the smooth vertical, slightly overhanging and extremely overhanging walls. Despite the fact that the crag is almost 20 years old, the bolting is excellent and the distance between the bolts varies, according to the difficulty and characteristics of each individual pitch. A somewhat easier alternative to the Crépe de Oucèra Alta are the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi, located a few hairpin bends lower down. Immersed in the green forest, the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi offer 80 pitches from 5a to 6b.
Access
From Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes Period
The Crépe are located between 1700 and 1800m. The crag faces SSE and is therefore ideal during spring, summer and autumn. Climbing is possible in winter if there is little snow. Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo by Roberto Casanova, Cierre Edizioni



Sectors

Primo Settore
The “Primo settore” is the most popular sector, with the vast majority of pitches between 6a-6c. highly recommended are “Pikindolor” and “Latte acido”.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Didò 8m 5
2 Momo 10m 5+
3 Gogo 10m 6a
4 Snorki 14m 6a+
5 White Line 14m 6b
6 Uomini gatto 15m 6b+
7 Klamera 16m 6c
8 Melassa 16m 6b+
9 P38 16m + 14m 6b+, 6b
10 Latte acido 20m + 18 + 12 + 8 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6c
11 Variante di dx Latte acido 15m 6b+
12 Variante Lete destra 20m 6c
13 Variante Lete sinistra 12m 6c+
14 Variante Mente 12m 6c+
15 Fedora 22m 6a
16 Spitta e spera 20m 7a
17 Pikindolor 20m + 15+ 12+ 8 6c, 6b+, 6a, 6b+
18 Variante Delirio cosmico 16m 7a+
19 Profumo di donna 20m 6c+
20 Odore di sudore 20m 6c
21 Delirio cosmico 20m + 16 + 12 + 14 6a, 7c, 7b, 6c
22 Elettroshock 15m 7a
23 Cuba libre 26m 7b
24 Gin Fizz 31m 7b+
25 Petorada 32m 6c+
Settore Magica
The “Magica” sector takes its name after one of the most beautiful routes at the Crépe.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Tequila gold 20m+15 7a+, 6c
2 Variante Tequila 20m 7a+/b
3 Lemon Wodka 20m 7b+
4 Whisky and Soda 18m 7a
5 Magica armonia 24m 7c
6 Schizofrenica follia 23m 7c+
7 Patapunfete 22m 7a
8 Fisiognomica 22m 8a+
9 Rebus 16m 7c
10 Spittaggio confuso 16m 6c
11 Cannonao d'alghero 18m 7a+
Settore Tetti
Athletic routes harder than 7b are to be found in the “Tetti” sector . After heavy rainfall this sector remains wet.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Via dell'orto 18m 6c+
2 Oro 20m 7b
3 Incenso 20m 7b+
4 Birra 20m 6c+
5 Piccole canaglie 34m NL
6 Babuska 22m 7b
7 Caraibi bic 22m 7c
8 Delta force 22m 7c
9 Resinata 24m 8a
10 SN 22m 7b+
11 Attibabao 26m 8a+
12 Urla nel silenzio 26m 7c+
13 Arcobaleno 24m 7c
14 Sorcio parlante 24m 7c
15 Diedro 16m 6c+
16 Polifemo 16m 7a+
17 Depressione 18m 7b
18 Serpente piumato 16m n.l.
Ultimo Settore
“Ultimo settore” is the highest sector and divided into two sections. “Dita di burro” is highly recommended.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Pappilion 18m 6b+
2 Scubidou 18m 6c
3 Macomber 20m 6b+
4 Mandrake 24m 7a
5 Viperone NL
6 Polvere NL
7 Dita di burro 24m 7c
8 Par condicio 22m 7b+
9 Ultima tentazione 18m 7b+
10 Wagon-lit 10m 7a+





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