Cornalba, Italy, Lombardy, Cornalba

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The beautiful crag Cornalba in Val Serina close to Bergamo, Italy

Nicholas Hobley

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8c+

Height

200m

Rock type

Excellent slightly overhanging limestone.

Orientation

S, E

Rope

70m

"Cornalba is perhaps not as popular as it once used to be because the climbing style is no longer in vogue: slightly overhanging face climbing, with routes that are technical and complicated. The few repeats are testament to this change in style, and nowadays those who climb hard and compete mostly train on overhangs. Nevertheless Cornalba has an incredible potential, especially in its central section, but one really has to work at it." These the words of Beppe Dallona, perhaps Cornalba's most devoted local.

Access

Take the motorway A4 Milano-Venezia, exit at Dalmine and turn off left for Val Brembana. After 11 km join up with th SS40 and keep left for Val Brembana. After Zogno (22 km), turn right for Zamba-Cornalba and enter Val Serina. After 10km turn off right following signs for Cornalba, and after 1km turn right again. Reach the village centre and follow signs for the crag. Parking is possible close to the Bar-Restaurant Vico (tel. 0345-66446). From the bar continus on foot in 10 minutes to the crag.

Period

The altitude (1100m) and the orientation south and east make climbing possible all year round.

Climb

Technical vertical face climbing. Routes tend to be crimpy and cruxy.

Notes

Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+, Cornalba

Bibliography

"Pesci, Quaresima, Capucciati, Tassi - Arrampicate Sportive fra Bergamo e Brescia - Edizioni Versante Sud, 1996".

Beppe Dallona - Beppe Dallona climbing Les Sindacalistes, Cornalba

Angelika Rainer climbing Outsider 8a+ at Cornalba - Angelika Rainer climbing Outsider 8a+ at Cornalba

Cornalba - Angelika Rainer climbing Outsider 8a+ at Cornalba

Adam Ondra - Adam Ondra climbing Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba

Cornalba - The magnificent crag Cornalba

Gabriele Moroni - Gabriele Moroni climbing Goldrake 9a+, Cornalba, in 2012

Cornalba - Tiziano Asperti climbing Feedback 8b, Cornalba

Cornalba - Daniele Calegari climbing Feedback 8b, Cornalba

Sports climbing: Stefano Carnati, Goldrake, Cornalba - Stefano Carnati making the third ascent of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy, on 20 March 2016

Sports climbing: Stefano Carnati, Goldrake, Cornalba - Stefano Carnati making the third ascent of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy, on 20 March 2016, after Adam Ondra (2010) and Gabriele Moroni (2014)

See all photos

Sectors

Parete Sud Tempi Nuovi

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Appare bao	15m	6c
2	Enfant prodige	15m	7b
3	S.N.	16m	7a
4	Mon cherì	15m	6b+
5	carillon	60m	7a, 7b
6	Quisse	20m	7c
7	Tempi nuovi	60m	6a, 6a+, 7a
8	Via del Camos	60m	7a+, 7a, 6b+
9	Variante	10m	6c
10	S.N.	16m	7c
11	Via del Ciusse	25m	7a+
12	Via del diedro	20m	5c
13	S.N.	22m	6b
14	Slot Machine	20m	8a+
15	Settimo senso	15m	8c
16	S.N.	25m	7a+

Parete Sud Apache

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
17	Feed Back	25m	8b
18	Feed Back2	15m	8a
19	C'era una volta in America	40m	8c
20	Outsider	25m	8a+
21	Apache		8a, 8a+, N.L.
22	Mandrake	60m	7c,7b,N.L.
22	Zuper-Mandrake	35m	8c/8c+
23	Partoloco	20m	6a+
24	Ariane	25m	6c
25	Totem	24m	6c+
26	Via della Fessura	80m	6a+, 6a, 6c
27	Artrosi	28m	6c
28	FBL	25m	8a+
29	Magic Moment	26m	6c+
30	Nos Otros	25m	8a+
31	Artemide		7c, 6c
32	El Santo	30m	7a
33	Onde Gravitazionali	27m	7a
34	Variante	10m	N.L.
35	Fotonica	20m	6c+
35	Fuffuruffu	20m	6c
36	Miranda	20m	7a+
37	Via del Gastù	18m	6a
38	Via delle Dindone	18m	6b
39	Via delle barbone	15m	6b+
40	Robocop	30m, 40m	5a, 5a
41	Pinocchio	30m, 30m	5a, 5a
42	Il diedro	40m	6a
43	Svalutation	25m	8a
44	Crock	20m	6b
45	Crack	20m	6c+
46	La vie en Rose	40m	6c, 6a
47	Variante	20m	6a
48	Cocco Bil	20m	6a+
49	Antares	15m, 12m	6c, 7b
50	Alpha Centauri	15m	7a
51	Solo gli Dei	60m	7c, 7a+, 6a
52	Solar Fire	25m	7a+, N.L.,
53	Turisti nel vuoto	50m	7c, 6c
54	La piccola manetta lombarda	25m	6c+
55	Sioux	35m	7a
56	Happy Birthday		7a, 6b

Parete Sud Dolce Vita

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
56	Senza Nome	30m	6c
56	Bella Frittella	30m	6a
57	Ambra	28m	6b+
58	Gina la suina	28m	6c+
59	Frau	22m	7a
60	Saigon	24m	7a
61	La dolce vita	24m	7a+
62	Cosmic Debris	20m	7b+
63	Mano Gialla	15m	7b

Parete Est Figli del Vento

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
64	Crik	20m	6b
65	Crok	20m	6c+
66	Top Lazzaro	25m	6c
67	Apollo		7a+, 7a+
68	Gypsy Queen		7b, N.L.
69	Les Sindacalistes	30m	8c+
70	Figli del Vento		7b+, 8a
71	Andamento lento	45m	8b
72	Vento nei capelli	35m	N.L.
72	Evanescence
73	Miss Lily	25m	8a+
74	S.N.		7c+
75	Indios	40m	6b+
76	Caminone	80m	5+, 5+,6a
77	Zeus	30m	8a
78	Neuromante		N.L.
79	Lola	25m	7a
80	Jeremy Johnson	60m	6c, 6b, 7a+
81	Bellatrix	25m	7a
82	Orion	20m	7b+
83	Muck	20m	7b+
84	Sincroclash	25m	8b
85	Peter Pan	25m	8a+
86	Ursus	22m	6c
87	Il nano	25m	7c, N.L.
88	Rabdomante	20m	7b+
89	Phobos	20m	6a+

Parete Est Jedi

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
90	Coccodrillo roof	12m	7a
91	Rambo roof	12m	6c
92	Dito prensile		7a, 8a
93	Klein aber schwer		7b
94	Highlander	25m	8a
95	Jedi	25m	8b
96	Thomas son	20m	6a
97	Sciola 85	35m	7a, 6b+
98	Conan	25m	6b+
99	Kiowa	25m	7b
100	Mescalero	23m	7b+
101	Resin rouge	40m	8b+
102	El Morisco	40m	8b+
103	Replay	40m	8a, 7c+
104	Aquila di notte	60m	6c, 7b, N.L.
105	Bucolica	50m	6a+, 7a+

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Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8c+

Height

200m

Rock type

Excellent slightly overhanging limestone.

Orientation

S, E

Rope

70m

Position

Crags in the same region