Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowCrags arrowBuoux

Buoux

By: Nicholas Hobley, photos Michael Meisl
Country: France, Region: Provence, Town: Buoux

In the mid-eighties, the strongest in the world agreed at least on one thing: Buoux was the best crag in the universe. They travelled from every corner to the south of France in search of the impossible - and Buoux's long steep walls represented exactly this. With its grey compact limestone, good but distant pockets, intense moves and technical slabs, short roofs and steep overhangs, its routes immediately became cult lines, the maximum for the very best. A what a maximum!

In the '80's Tribout, Edlinger, Freira and Raboutou spent months in the valley, pushing the climbing scale ever upwards. But it was above all the Le Menestrel brothers who showed all where the future lay: in 1983 the fifteen year young Marc started the waltz with an 8a of which dreams are made of: Rev de Papillion. Two years later his brother Antoine freed the first 8b in the valley, Les Mains Sales, only to push things further still with the most famous 8b in the world, Le Rose et le Vampire. In 1986 Antoine linked La Rose and La Spectre to create the mammoth La Rage de Vivre, the 8b+ par excellance. It was the top, the limit of what was possible. And it took a further three years for this to be surpassed, with a statement impossible to ignore: Ben Moon's Agincourt, French 8c.

The tides turned though and the search for unending stamina meant that, from one day to the next, Buoux was no longer in the limelight. But new routes continued to be added and the crag, now mature, boasts hundreds of five-star routes. All magnificent!

And, despite its reputation, with over 200 routes between 6a and 6c Buoux is above all a crag for the mid-grade climber. If you haven't already been there yet, go. You’ll understand why, together with Verdon and Ceuse, Buoux forms our French trilogy – not to be missed!

GETTING THERE

Buoux is located in the Provence, in the South of France. From the north take the A7 motorway, exit at Avignon Sud and continue east along the N100 to Apt. From Apt continue south along the D113 to the village Buoux. After the village turn off left at the hairpin bend for the crag.

THE CLIMBING

Highly technical slab climbing on steep compact limestone.

FOOD AND ACCOMODATION

Apt or Bonnieux are the best base camps for climbers, offering camp grounds, hotels and gite d’etape. Camping Camping, Les Cèdres 84400 Apt Tél. +33 04.90.74.14.61 Camping, Le Luberon, Route de Saignon 84400 Apt Tel. 33 04.90.04.85.40 Fax 33 04.90.74.12.19 Camping 84480 Bonnieux Tel. 33 04.90.75.86.14 Gîte d'étape Gîte d'étape La Sparagoule, Buoux Tel. +39 04 90 74 47 82 Gîte rural Les Deymes Nord Tel. +39 04 90 74 47 03 Chambres d'hôtes, Haut Deyme Tel. +39 04 90 74 15 33

NOTES

www.provenceweb.fr
www.luberon-news.com
www.cragx.com
www.buouxbrothers.com

BIBLIOGRAPHY

France : Haute Provence by Adrian Berry, Rockfax

Share this page

Comments for "Buoux"

No comments for Buoux

Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

BEST TIME OF YEAR

Spring and autumn. Avoid holidays due to overcrowding, in particular Easter.

HEIGHT

200m

ROPE

70m rope and 15 quickdraws.

GRADES

4a - 8c

ROCK

Compact grey limestone

ORIENTATION

South, West and North

NUMBER OF ROUTES

500

VOTE / crag
VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Add your vote
COMMENT / crag

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH crags

AREA

Crag

More crags near Provence
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
    Per precisazione:"la sosta a spit" si incontra sul secondo t ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Evergreen
    Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo conge ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello