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Kalymnos - Sikati Cave

By: Aris Theodoropoulos
Country: Greece, Region: Kalymnos, Town: Kalymnos (Dodecanese)

The Sikati cave is located on the N.E. of Kalymnos and although climbers call it Sikati, the locals call it Alatsia. It is like a huge hole in the ground; a cave with no roof with a 50-60m diameter, 70m deep in parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites.

There is great potential for setting up an extra 20-30 difficult routes and around 20-25 easier routes on the grey wall opposite. Once these have been established, Sikati could easily satisfy the needs of all kinds of climbers with its great quantity and quality rock.

Sikati is similar in style to Grande Grotta but even better because there are also plenty of pockets. This will soon be the next hot-spot, not only on Kalymnos but also worldwide.

And at the end of the day make sure you go swimming at the remote beach nearby, just 5 minutes from the cave.

GETTING THERE

Drive towards Skalia village, turn right on the uphill dirt road towards the Palionnisos settlement. Once you have reached the top of the hill (chapel with a clearly-visible white cross and panoramic view towards Turkey, Leros, and all the islands to the N. and N.E.) descend for 300m until the first big 180 degree bend. Then either: 1. Park here, go through the gate in the wire fence and traverse downwards to a goat-track keeping the wire fence on your left hand side. Continue traversing after the fence ends until you reach two distinct boulders and an old demolished house on the col. Go through one more gate after the house and follow a path with red-coloured markerss until you reach the cave and the beach below. 30-40 min in total. The drawback of this approach is that on your way back it's all uphill. 2. Alternatively, don't park on the first turn but continue until the last big right turn just before Palionnisos. Park here and take the distinct path till the sea (Sikati gulf). Here on your left, you can see 2 or 3 small stone houses that were left there by the Italians after the Second World War. Just after the houses and close to the sea there is a nice little north-facing red crag waiting for new routes. Just before the houses turn up left for 70 - 80m by the small gorge. After that, traverse parallel to the sea until you reach the beautiful remote beach by the Cave of Sikati. From here the cave can be seen a bit further up (5 min). 30-35 min. in total. 3. For the adventurous or lazy: go to the jetty at Melitsaha where small boats can be taken to Telendos and rent one for your transport to Sikati. Make the arrangements the previous day. 30-35 min by boat and 5 min walking.

THE CLIMBING

Climbing at Sikati, just like in Grande Grotta, is three-dimensional since stalactites spring from behind your back as you climb upwards! The rock is absurdly overhanging and that makes the climbing both dynamic and pumpy. However on the west-facing side of the cave there is a 20m high grey wall where new routes ranging from 5c - 6c could be set up.

NOTES

Warning: While climbing some of the stalactites could break. No one should stand immediately beneath the routes. It is better for the belayers to keep in to the base of the crag with their backs to the wall. Not only is it safer, but necks will suffer less from looking up all the time. Recommended rope length 70 or 80m, especially for the extension pitches! The route "Morgan est une andalouse", climbed in one pitch, will need a 100m rope.

Kalymnos rock climbing in Greece

GETTING TO KALYMNOS
By boat

Kalymnos can be reached by boat from the island Kos. Once you have landed in Kos, take a taxi to the port at Mastichari and catch the next boat to Kalymnos from there. Mastichari is 10 minutes by taxi from Kos airport and the taxi ride costs €12 - €15 euro in total. Regular ferries and smaller speed boats make the Mastichari – Pothia (Kalymnos) route regularly. The ferry ride takes approximately 45 minutes and costs €4; the speedboat takes approximately 25 minutes and costs €6.00. When you arrive at Pothia (the main port in Kalymnos) you will find a number of taxis waiting. A taxi ride to Massouri costs between €10-15, depending on the number of passengers and luggage. Alternatively, you can rent a scooter or car, or inquire about the public bus schedule departing in front of the City Hall. There is a tourist information kiosk at the port exit. To check the Kos – Kalymnos ferry timetable, go to www.danae.gr and enter ‘Mastichari’ and ‘Kalymnos’ in the respective fields.  You can also call the Port Authority of Kos for an automated timetable message in English on the following number: +30 22420 26594. In the unlikely event that there is no taxi waiting at Pothia, call the taxi station on the following number: +30 22430 50300.

By plane
In high season Olympic Air flies Athens - Kalymnos regularly and a return ticket costs approximately euro 200.

Further info
Full info on getting to Kalymnos here: www.climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2628

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide – All New 2010 Edition. Aris Theodoropoulos. 360 pages, 1700 routes, 64 sectors, English
 

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

BEST TIME OF YEAR

Sikati is north-facing and therefore in the shade almost all day. The S.E. facing routes, from Exit to Lolita, are only in the sun early in the morning until 12.00. It is an ideal sector for summer climbing, especially in the evening.

HEIGHT

80m

ROPE

80m rope

GRADES

4a - 8b

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

North

LINK

climbkalymnos.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

14

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