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Plakias

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Aris Theodoropoulos

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Aris Theodoropoulos archive

Plakias, Creta, Grecia

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

5a - 8a+

Height

35m

Link

www.climbincrete.com

Routes number

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

Rope

70m rope

Crete, the largest island in Greece, is famous for its remarkable history, its rugged beauty and long sandy beaches which make it an ideal holiday destination for thousands of tourists every year. While the vast majority flock to the northern shores, most do not realise that this wild and arid island is extremely attractive for those in search of solitary treks down winding gorges, ski mountaineering high in the mountains, long multi-pitch climbs and difficult sport climbs just a stone's throw from the less crowded sandy beaches in the south.Plakias itself is a sheer vertical limestone wall which dominates the sandy beach close to town on the island's south. The first climbs were established in the early '80's but the majority were developed fairly recently, and some projects are still waiting to be freed. Plakias is special little crag but it certainly isn't the only place to climb on Crete: Agiofaraggo is the most famous outcrop on this enormous island with circa 80 routes up to 8b, while other important areas include Trahoulas and Kapetaniana.If you're planning on combing relaxation, culture and climbing, Crete may be just the island you're looking for.

Access
Either fly or take a ferry to Crete. Plakias is located 35km due south of Rethymnon, one of the main cities in northern Crete. The cliff is situated at the eastern edge of the town above a very beautiful sandy nudist beach. Logistics
Accommodation in Plakias. Period
The best climbing seasons in Plakias are spring and autumn, but even summer is OK as long as you stay in the shade. The cliff is in the shade from morning until almost 15:00. Avoid climbing on windy days. Climb
As can be seen from the photos, the crag is a completely smooth vertical limestone face, with some nice cracks and small tufas. Bibliography

Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of
by Aris Theodoropoulos
Includes the following area:
Thessaly: Meteora; Pyli Little Gorge; Mouzaki; Almyros
Athens area (Central Greece): Mavrosouvala; Hasia Cave; Acharneis; Mikri Varasova/Epos Filis; Sesi; Vrachokipos; Lelaki; Chaos
Patras area (Western Greece): Alepochori; Chatzouri; Kleisoura; Varasova
Peloponnese ( Southern Greece): Nafplio; Leonidio; Kyparissi; Zobolo; Lagada; Nedousa
Aegean islands: Symi; Anafi; Crete (the crags: Voulismeno Aloni, Plakias and Tersanas Cave)

Plakias, Creta - Aris Theodoropoulos archive

See all photos

Sectors

Plakias

Routes from left to right.

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Trihes stin Palami	15m	5a
2	Vandalup	12m	5b
3	Vandalup extension	18m	6a
4	Menios	20m	6a
5	Eptapsyhos	25m	6b
6	Dog- Manolis	25m	6c+
7	Project Minimalist Direct
8	Minimalist	25m	7c+/8a
9	Minotavros	25m	7b+
10	Space cake	23m	8a+
11	Opios fovatai peftei kai koimatai	23m	7c
12	Koufala project
13	Project
14	Fisfiri	25m	6b
15	Project
16	Ariadne	15m	6b
17	Ariadne Extension	45m	7a+
18	Tsaba byra	25m	7a+
19	Fodele	23m	5c
20	Fodele extension	40m	6a+
21	Kill the doc	30m	6c+
22	Helenje	23m	6c
23	Helenje extension	7a	35m
24	Project
25	Ahiva la ostia	35m	7b+
26	Original	30m	7c+/8a
27	Mafalda project