Zillertal Ewige Jagdgründe climbing in Tyrol, Austria
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Zillertal Ewige Jagdgründe
Tyrol - Austria
by Nicholas Hobley

Imagine a beautiful green narrow valley with pasturing cows and snow-capped peaks. A stream gushes happily through it, and a small road winds upwards, past the occasional farm, through the odd hamlet. Now imagine that littered within this valley there are dozens of granite boulders of all shapes and sizes. Some are gigantic, while others are tiny, dwarfed by the dark cliffs high up above. If you look carefully you’ll notice those telltale white chalk marks, and even closer inspection reveals that there are literally hundreds of sports routes to choose from. Delicate quartz slabs, deep granite cracks, steep crimpy overhangs… a dream come true? Well, stop imagining and welcome to the Zillertal, Austria’s granite eldorado!

The Zillertal has long been the breeding ground for some of Austria’s foremost climbers, with the likes of Gerhard Hörhager and Markus Schwaiger setting standards and pushing them ever upwards over the last 20 years. But this valley is by no means resereved exclusively for the best: there are over hundreds routes to chose from, of which the majority are mid-grades. And if you want a rest from the single pitch sports climbing, consider some of the multi-pitches which loom above, or the massive bouldering opportunities dotted throught the in the valley and the nearby Zillergrund.

One of the main crags in the Zillertal is without a doubt the Ewige Jagdgründe, a collection of 7 massive boulders with some of the best and most varied climbing in the area. We recommend you head here first, then discover the other crags.

Getting there
The Zillertal is located 70 km SE of Innsbruck. Take the A12 motorway east, exit at Wiesing then travel S along the B169 to Mayrhofen. After Mayrhofen turn left off the main road, keeping on the B169 to Ginzling. Continue through this small village on up to the Ewige Jagdgründe - the enormous free standing boulders on the left. Park next to theboulders, circa 500m before reaching Gasthaus Breitlahner and the toll road.

The climbing
All types of granite climbing: cracks, slopers, slabs, steep crimpy overhangs.

Please note: the boulders on the opposite side of the stream (Wig, Wam and Mocassin) are officialy closed to climbing. For up-to-date information check out www.stonemonkeys.com

Food and Accommodation
Camping Mayrhofen
www.tiscover.at/camping-mayrhofen

Notes
News Zillertal
www.stonemonkeys.com
 INFO
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Sectors and routes
 Einhorn
 Wächter
 Haüptling
 Wig & Wam
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Click to enlarge
Location: Mayrhofen
Province:
Best time of year: Spring, autumn.
Rock: Granite
Gear: 15 quickdraws for sports climb
Rope: 60m rope.
Beauty:
Height: 300m
Orientation: N, S, E, W
Grades: 4a - 8c
Number of routes: 200
Bibliography: Zillertal, Klettern & Bouldern - Markus Schwaiger

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