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Kalymnos - Arginonta Valley

By: Aris Theodoropoulos
Country: Greece, Region: Kalymnos, Town: Kalymnos (Dodecanese)

Sector Arginonta Valley is above a valley with beautiful, centuries-old gnarled olive trees. The trees were completely neglected but the terrain around them has been cleaned and their shade can now be enjoyed freely. The sector’s three distinct sections offer a bit of everything: steep slabs full of good holds and some horizontal streaks, juggy bulges, and steep overhangs with some colonettes. Most routes were equipped by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Idoux.

GETTING THERE

Go to Arginonta village. Immediately after the small honey shop, turn right. Pass in front of the church and continue on a concrete road for about 200m. The concrete road turns into a bumpy dirt road. Park 50m further, at the clearing with the huge olive trees. Walk for a further 100m along the dirt road until you see a wire gate on the right. Go through the gate into the olive grove. Make sure to close the door behind you. Walk up to the cliff through the olive trees for another two minutes. Walking time: 5 min. *Temporary access problems to Arginonta Valley: Part of the area beneath the cliffs is used by a local shepherd for housing sheep and goats. While the shepherd cooperated with the equippers when they were developing the crag, after the work was completed he decided to restrict access to the cliffs because of a land dispute with the municipality. The municipality has promised to resolve the dispute, but there has been no progress at the time of writing. For now, walk along the dirt road until you find portions of the wire fence you can hop over; there are at least two such sections along the wire fence.

THE CLIMBING

On slabs full of good holds, small bulges and some horizontal streaks, vertical walls with small holds and juggy bulges, but also steep overhangs with jugs and some colonettes. The cliff is north-facing, well-bolted, and though originally covered in dry thorny bushes and shrubs, thorough cleaning uncovered quite a few highly enjoyable and varied lines.

NOTES

Grades are not confirmed yet, as the routes are very new and have only seen a handful of ascents. After climbing at Arginonta Valley or Black Buddha, the handful of small friendly shops in Arginonta are perfect for relaxing.



Kids: Both sectors have some suitable areas, though the approach to Black Buddha is much longer and steep at parts. Remember that kids must always be away from the cliffs and never directly beneath climbers.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide – 2016 Edition. Aris Theodoropoulos. 3000 rock climbs, English
 

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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

Ideal for climbing on hot days. Arginonta Valley is in the shade from 11:30 (Left Cave and Right Wall) or 12:30 (Middle Wall) and for the rest of the day.

GRADES

5a - 7c

ROCK

Limestone

ORIENTATION

North

LINK

climbkalymnos.com

NUMBER OF ROUTES

39

PDF

Kalymnos - Arginonta Valley

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