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Spelonca - Spiluck

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Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige, Town: Vahrn / Varna (Bolzano)

With the new climbing area Spiluck a little paradise has been created close to Vahrn , near the city of Brixen. Apart from the fantastic view onto the Geislerspitzen, thanks to the time and hard work of the local climbers it now offers superb sport climbing and bouldering. The area's potential has yet to be exploited fully and many new routes and boulder problems will be established here in the future.

The special granite and gneiss makes the climbing diverse and interesting. The crag offers challenging routes on vertical and overhanging walls, while the the stunning panorama onto the Dolomites renders the experience even more special. Since the routes are quite new, wearing a helmet is recommended. New sectors will be developed in due course, such asset Kinderwandl, a wall with easier routes ideal children.

The bouldering area with about 70 problems is not the biggest in South Tyrol. But the boulders often require creativity and spectacular moves on slopers, small crimps and other types of holds. The sectors are located in the shady and quiet forest and although some of the boulders reach a considerable, almost scary, height, the landings are always good. To sum it up: Spelonca has all the necessary ingredients for a beautiful bouldering area.

The development of this new climbing area has been made possible only thanks to the collaboration and help of many people. After long talks with the landowners, with the alpine club and the villagers, after devoting a lot of free time to bolting and brushing the rock, the local climbers have managed to create this beautiful area for everyone. The collaboration of the town council, landowners and local climbers was unique and exemplary. In particular the financial support of the local Varna council and the tireless work of the forestry commission, which established the paths and safety cordons, created the necessary basis for the project "Climbing at Spelonca / Spiluck".

GETTING THERE

From the south, drive through Bressanone/Brixen to Varna/Vahrn. Turn left and follow the signs to Scaleres/Spelonca. After driving upwards for 4 kilometers, take the sharp right-turn to Spelonca/Spiluck. Follow the narrow road through the woods until reaching the fire station, park on the right for sector Molino/Mühle (boulder).

For the sector Steinwiese (boulder) and the crag Waldkofel go on in the direction of the Gostnerhof. At the second turn to the right go straight on, until reaching the road to a restaurant. Go on for another 200 meters and leave the car on a big parking right before a barrier.

From the north, go to Varna/Vahrn and turn right to Scalares/Spelonca. Then continue as described above.

Access: Sector Molino/Mühle (boulder): From the parking, go back on the road until you reach a sign indicating the way to the "Alte Mühle". The path leads to the right, upwards in the woods. At the crossing, go straight on and shortly after you arrive to an old mill, where you find the boulders.

Sector Steinwiese and Waldkofel (boulder and crag): From the parking continue on the forest road in the direction of Karspitze. After the first meadow on the left, a path starts next to a big boulder, leading in the woods (sign: Zirmait Alm). Following this path you reach block 1 and 2 (right). For the next boulders, remain on the path, leading back to the forest road. Go right for about 30 meters (sign: Scheibenberg/Spilucklacke) and continue again on a small path in the woods, with leads to the blocks in about 1 minute (total time: 15 min).

For the crag Waldkofel, once you reached the boulders, go straight on until you reach the wall (another 15 min).

NOTES

Spelonca is not only a great place to climb, but also a superb place to eat and drink. If you are hungry or thirsty after an intense climbing day, you should stop off at one of thevillage restaurants.

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

The crag is located at 1670m, the bouldering area between 1220m - 1550m. Recommended months: March, April, May, September, October, November.

GRADES

6b - 7c

ROCK

Gneiss

ORIENTATION

East

NUMBER OF ROUTES

15

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