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Passo delle Erbe - Würzjoch

By: Vertical-Life.info
Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige, Town: San Martino in Badia (Bolzano)

For several years now, the Dolomites have been turning into a popular destination not only for alpinists and alpine climbers, but also for sport climbers. Thanks to the unique limestone and the incomparable landscapes of rock towers and mountain massifs, the Dolomites have become part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The yellow and grey rock faces attract many climbers, seeking to measure themselves on those crags.

One of the most beautiful spots has been bolted in the last few years by locals: the Passo delle Erbe is composed of several huge blocks, that have fallen from the gigantic Sass Putia. This crag is ideal for hot summer and autumn day. It probably offers some of the most interesting sportclimbing routes of Alto Adige / Südtirol, for instance "Riss-Kant" (8a+). On the central part of the main sector, there are two lines waiting to be freed, certainly of a difficulty as hard as the 8th French grade. To the left, there is the – so far – hardest route "Camilotto" (8b), first climbed by the local Hannes Mantinger. Although there are also some easier routes, that are worth noting, the high difficulties dominate the climbing on the Passo delle Erbe. It is almost needless to say that the spot at the foot of the north face of Sass Putia accounts for an impressive panorama.

GETTING THERE

In Pustertal go to San Lorenzo and from there into Val Badia. Continue until Sankt Martin in Thurn and from there follow the signs to Würzjoch (Passo delle Erbe). Park directly on the pass. From Brixen go to Sankt Andrä (bottom station of the Plose cable car) and continue to Würzjoch, passing by the village of Afers. Park the car on the big parking lot on the pass. From the parking lot, follow trail nr. 8 to a hut on a pasture, where it splits. Follow trail nr. 8b to the left until the big boulders are reached. A wooden sign indicates the trail which goes up right to the crag.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
54 crags in the Dolomites, in 3 languages (German, Italian, English) by Vertical-Life.info, 2013
 

ON SALE AT SHOP.PLANETMOUNTAIN.COM
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
English, German, Italian.
by Vertical-Life.info


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Details / crag
SECTORS AND ROUTES
BEAUTY

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

May - October. The crag is located at 1800m a.s.l.

GRADES

3a - 8b

ROCK

Dolomite limestone

ORIENTATION

East, South

LINK

guide.vertical-life.info

NUMBER OF ROUTES

41

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